Darwinian is the perfect metaphor for the London dining scene. Given the attractions of the city, the diversity of options available and the pounds in consumers’ wallets (a lot more, post-Brexit, for foreign visitors), only the best should survive.

Perhaps the location says it all: almost opposite the offices of Goldman Sachs and barely a stone’s throw from many barristers’ chambers, Lutyens knows its target market and caters appropriately to them.

The London restaurant scene is competitive across almost every part of the capital, and St Katherine’s Dock is no exception.

Let’s face it, Smithfield Market is a fairly uninspiring location, ugly buildings and somewhat a no-man’s land, not quite in the City-proper or in funky Shoreditch. 

It was unfortunate for The Chancery that I had dined only yesterday at Jason Atherton’s superb Social Eating House and so the bar was set high, but even viewed objectively, the former was a disappointment on almost all fronts.

It is relatively rare for restaurant groups to be able to expand successfully, particularly without risking dilution either to their brand or concept. In the case of Hawksmoor, full credit to the team. I had enjoyed visiting their Seven Dials restaurant earlier in the year, and a recent lunch at the Guildhall location showed every evidence of consistent delivery.

Doing your research almost always pays off and there is a particular pleasure I believe all gastrophiles derive from finding consistently excellent restaurants that are somewhat off the beaten track and hence under-appreciated by others.