That Anne-Sophie Pic’s London outpost has just received its second Michelin star speaks volumes. A visit here is undoubtedly an elevated dining experience which delivered across the board. It would be easy to feel awed – given the grand location (inside the Four Seasons Hotel, which itself is housed in the former London Port Authority building), much-garlanded chef and already mentioned stars – but the prevailing impression is one of genuine welcome. Here are people passionate about their métier – and they want diners to partake in this delight too. It was indeed a rare sight to see all the guests seemingly enjoying their meals. Located far from Mayfair or Chelsea there is – dare one say it – almost a better class (or certainly less Instagram-hungry) sort of diner at La Dame. Moreover, in contrast to many restaurants based in hotels, which come almost as an after-thought, diners have every reason to conceive of La Dame as a destination in its own right. Do not be put off by the high ceilings and mirrored pillars of the dining room. Rather, focus on the calming view of the River Thames and Tower of London if you can see it, or just simply sit back and enjoy the experience. Two stars have not gone to the venue’s head; you’re not expected to feel reverent for what you are about to eat, just to partake. Sure, dining here does not come cheap, especially if the tasting menu floats your boat, but a set lunch offering of £32 for two courses or £45 for three must count as a relative bargain, especially given the overall quality. To return to the notion of elevation, consider how steak tartare – a staple of many restaurants – is given an absolute make-over at La Dame. The beef is almost not visible beneath layers of beetroot, smoked pike caviar and lovage ice cream. It is both a visual and taste sensation. Our group of three all ventured for the same main of stone bass (pictured) – another masterpiece at all levels. A certain element of genius is required to consider the pairing of fish with beetroot, grapefruit, pepper and hibiscus. Balance and integration were superb. Our sommelier who paired Rhone wines with both the starter and main brought a similar level of thought and passion to the experience. When considering the whole meal, it was also the small touches (amuse bouche, petit fours) that mattered. Flawless execution throughout. It’s hard not to be wowed.
La Dame de Pic: Reach for the stars