Beware any review that uses expressions such as ‘hidden gem’, ‘redefining a genre’ or ‘homage to authenticity.’ But then consider that clichés do serve a useful purpose, to capture the essence of any venue in an easy to recall fashion. All the above would apply in large doses to Supawan, a serendipitous new find.
Even though the area around King’s Cross has gone through a recent major gentrification, there are parts which have not. The Caledonian Road felt down at heel when your reviewer first lived in London in the late 1990s. It remains so now. Blink and you could almost miss the unassuming frontage of Supawan, located barely 5 minutes’ walk from one of the country’s busiest train stations. Wichet Khongphoon has been plying his trade here since 2001, seeking to recreate the flavours of his native Phuket. He now describes King’s Cross as “his second home.”
Supawan is certainly a home where I could comfortably settle. Walk into the dining room and it is about as far from a traditional Thai restaurant as it might be possible to imagine. There are no heavy wood furnishings or traditional ornaments; rather, it’s an eclectic mix of bright artwork and a slight hipster vibe, albeit an unpretentious one. On the warm summer lunchtime when my comrade and I dined, the doors to the back garden were open, providing a wonderful haven of green calm. To the opposite side of the room is a flower shop, whose offerings are visible to diners at some tables. A nice touch, which adds to the atmosphere.
The menu comprises around 10 starters and roughly twice as many mains, with options spanning meat, fish and vegetables. Throughout, the emphasis is on harmony and subtlety rather than towards overt spice or chilli heat. Our tongues tingled pleasantly across the two starters and two mains we shared. Each was a superb visual and culinary composition. Simple squid was elevated by chilli and tamarind, with the sweetness of latter offsetting the fire of the former. An aubergine laab was a masterpiece of textures, the vegetable benefiting from being smoked and slow cooked to the extent it had almost dissolved. Tamarind again played a starring role, but the dish was made by its dry chilli and crispy shallot topping. A main playfully entitled ‘Dad’s beef curry’ was a textbook rendering of comfort food, while our a separate prawn offering provided great contrast. Here, ginger and basil sung most loudly. A full hit rate of successes. Next time it would be fun to try more of Wichet’s offerings. At c£45/head (including two beers each and service), there definitely will be a next time too.