There is no debate that the Shard has redefined the London skyline. However, much more uncertain in the opinion of this reviewer is whether the restaurants within the Shard have had any impact on the London dining scene…
Indian, Notting Hill
Every self-respecting London gastrophile loves Dishoom. From the original Covent Garden branch that opened over 15 years ago, the group has now expanded to 11 outlets. Their cookbook adorns many a kitchen, your reviewer’s included. Sometimes he dreams about their black daal, and occasionally attempts to re-create it. If Dishoom made a bang at its inception (for that’s what the word means, per a popular Mumbai comic strip), then Permit Room is its worthy younger sibling.
Italian, Fitzrovia
Step into Motorino and the first thing you may experience is temporal dislocation. Have no doubt, this is an effortlessly cool venue, and one that is very self-conscious with it. Maybe the year is 1976, or perhaps it’s 2026 at Motorino. With a retro-chic décor and a menu that describes itself as ‘London Italian’, this restaurant hits the zeitgeist.
Fish, Seafood, Borough
If you want some of the finest fresh fish in London, then look no further than Wright Brothers. The eponymous siblings began life in Cornwall. Their empire has expanded from fishermen to wholesalers to restrauters. Your reviewer lamented the closure of the group’s Soho branch, but it was a delight to visit the group’s original dining outlet in Borough Market recently. Everything is as it should be.
Hawaiian, Korean, New York
Your reviewer is blessed living in London, arguably the culinary capital of the world. If any other city were to go head-to-head with it, then New York would be the most likely candidate. England’s capital boasts more Michelin-starred outlets than its North American rival, although NYC wins on the metric of stars per square mile. It also boasts more restaurants in absolute terms. However, this is not a competition…
Spanish, Mayfair
How many restaurants that have been open for over eight years can claim to have a queue of people waiting outside for them to open on a weekday lunchtime? Sabor is part of this elite club. Securing a booking at the venue is still difficult. And for good reason. Chef Nieves Barragán and her team make the best suckling pig in London.
