Roka has justly built its reputation for modern and innovative Japanese-style dining based on its original Charlotte Street outpost. The empire now extends to four restaurants in London and a further one in Hong Kong.
Hakkasan Mayfair: Indulgent, but definitely worth it (June 2014)
Going to Hakkasan is an experience, from beginning to end, and while not cheap, it is undoubtedly worth it. The sense of anticipation and occasion is heightened on arrival. While the exterior of the building is relatively nondescript, in an office block to the side of Berkeley Square, diners are forced to walk down a relatively long, delicately-scented black passageway lit only by small sparkling lights in order to reach the dining room.
NAC: Simple yet effective (June 2014)
Peyote: Much Mexican magic (June 2014)
All things South American (and not just the football) currently seem in vogue. After the success and subsequent entrenchment of Coya and Sushisamba on the London dining scene, along comes Peyote, devoted broadly to the cuisine of Mexico – admittedly in Central America, but stylistically quite similar in terms of cuisine.
Babbo: Nice – but at a price (June 2014)
Benares: Over-priced and overrated (May 2014)
It doesn’t matter how many times I go to Benares, I just can’t get to like it. This was the first time for me for a while, but it hadn't improved since my previous visit. Clearly chef Atul Kochhar must be doing something right to have earned a Michelin star for the eighth consecutive year, and while the food may have been good, it certainly wasn’t outstanding, the whole experience far from cheap, and the atmosphere underwhelming.
Gymkhana (April 2014)
Scott’s: Consistently excellent (February 2014)
34: A good score for 34 (February 2014)
Social Eating House (January 2014)
Another success from Jason Atherton, both my comrade and I delighted in every moment of our experience at Little Social. We were not at all surprised that all the tables were full on a Tuesday lunchtime yet despite this, the service was friendly, relaxed, caring and importantly both prompt yet unrushed too.
Helene Darroze at The Connaught: Two starts mostly justified (December 2013)
Burger & Lobster Mayfair: Nice concept, pity about the price (December 2013)
C London (October 2013)
Clearly C-London must be doing something right since the place was packed on the weekday lunchtime when I recently visited the restaurant. Maybe it’s just that people still want to be seen here, but even if C-London was in the vanguard of ‘destination restaurants’ some years ago, it seems difficult to believe that it has been able to sustain this mantle.
Ikeda: Good food, but not cheap (October 2013)
Diners in London in search of authentic Japanese food and service have it good in Mayfair. Ikeda can comfortably hold its own against the likes of Sakana-Tei (Maddox Street) or Kiku (Half Moon Street) among others. If there is a common factor across these restaurants, it is that they – like much of Japanese culture – are discreet and under-stated.
Little Social: Needs to think bigger (June 2013)
After having thoroughly enjoyed Pollen Street Social on several occasions, I approached Little Social with some anticipation, intrigued as much as anything to see whether Jason Atherton could continue to work his magic in another restaurant formula or whether Pollen Street’s smaller sibling would be an example of brand-extension-gone-too-far, an unnecessarily bold incursion situated directly opposite its precursor.
Hush: All about location (and not really the food) (June 2013)
Aubaine Mayfair: Scored on most – but not all – counts (June 2013)
French food in London can often be a culinary minefield, with the experience ranging from the old-fashioned and high-end (think Gavroche) to the touristy and tacky (Café Rouge). Aubaine manages to sit comfortably between these two extremes and constitutes an enjoyable and fairly priced – if not exceptional – dining option.
Coya: Underwhelming (March 2013)
Patty & Bun James Street (March 2013)
The current fad for ‘posh burgers’ is a good one, obvious given that the burger arguably constitutes the ultimate comfort food and democratic in that it at appeals to almost everyone. Moreover, any restaurant that has a queue outside it prior to opening its doors at 12 must clearly be on to something.