There are few restaurants in London that have remained consistently on form for more than a decade. Yet even in pandemic-constrained times, Bocca di Lupo continues to deliver the goods. A recent Friday lunchtime saw the venue buzzing with life and activity. Sure, there were slightly fewer tables than in the past, glass partitions at regular intervals across the bar and servers in all manner of precautionary face coverings, but the essential vibe was undoubtedly still there. Twelve years after opening customers still flock to Bocca di Lupo because it’s so much fun. This is because the venue allows diners to indulge in a guilty secret they might rather not admit: when they go out, it doesn’t always have to be about fine dining. Take good comfort food, pimp it up and… you have posh rustic. It’s not an oxymoron, but to my mind the concept Jacob Kennedy and his team have crafted to perfection. The food on offer is pan-Italian with each dish’s regional provenance helpfully indicated on the menu. Items are designed for sharing and portions can be either small or large. Where else in London can you enjoy Roman tripe alongside Neapolitan parmigiana amidst beautiful people? Think of Bocca di Lupo as your local trattoria relocated central London and then headed up by a competent chef and team. It’s priced reasonably too and depending on appetite – I wanted to try everything – you can eat from as little as £30/head. From the selection my comrade and I sampled, there were no duds. The sheer pungency and flavour intensity of the tripe – flavoured with tomato and pecorino – was unlike any other I have had recently. The pictured parmigiana had an almost meaty oomph too it and a hearty richness too. There was also artfulness in the presentation, as evidenced by our Sicilian opener, a combination of squid, prawns and lemon slices; pesto Trapanese served alongside. Plaudits to the wine list as well, which again places a large emphasis on regionalism. We loved our Nero d’Avola (from Sicily). Book now before London shuts down again.