It has become almost de rigeur for every tall building in the City of London to provide a dining experience on one of its higher floors. The claim of 14 Hills, that it offers “unapparelled” views of London, is perhaps hyperbole. Sure, it’s on the 14th Floor of 120 Fenchurch Street (a newish office development), but there was quite definitively not a hill in sight; maybe just the edge of the north Downs, if you’re lucky and it’s a clear day. It was fortuitous then that there is more to enjoy at this venue than just the views. 14 Hills delivered very solid if not quite ground-breaking cuisine at a reasonable price point.
The formula is a somewhat predictable one of ‘modern British’, but this should perhaps not be too surprising, given that the venue is part of the D&D Group. The mini chain has been at the heart of London dining for years, operating venues such as Le Pont de la Tour, Coq d’Argent, Plateau and the like. It’s a tried and tested formula, but it certainly works.
Custom was brisk on the Monday lunchtime when we visited, perhaps helped by the offer of three courses for £25 from a set menu. This constitutes a veritable bargain and is surely reason enough to visit, even if the somewhat excessive and garish faux Colonial décor probably looks cooler under the artificial light of an evening.
Back to the food and we ventured into a la carte territory. Fortunately, the list is not excessive, comprising around half a dozen each of starters, mains and desserts. A few seasonal specials are thrown in too and it was from this selection that I chose my grouse (pictured). Admittedly I am sucker for game, but this iteration was excellently executed; the meat pink, juicy and flavoursome, the cabbage and bread sauce working as perfect foils. Our group of five selected widely across the menu, but the New York strip steak and sea bass both came in for praise too. We were impressed too with the wine list, which draws both on classic and more upcoming regions. Our Quinta do Pinto Portuguese red proved a well-liked choice. Was the overall experience markedly better than that on offer, say, at the Sky Garden, just over the road? It’s hard to say, but if you do visit 14 Hills, you will almost certainly come away with a broadly positive impression.