This is a special piece to mark a truly memorable meal. Gourmand Gunno normally restricts himself only to reviewing restaurants on his home UK turf. Top dining experiences for elsewhere can generally be found in the global section of his website.
Copenhagen does not lack for outstanding eating, garlanded chefs or Michelin stars. Anyone who is interested in food and has not heard of Noma must probably have been living in a cave for the last decade. The challenge for chefs in Denmark’s capital city is to do something genuinely noteworthy, that guests will remember fondly, start talking about and just might become the next big thing.
Mielcke & Hurtigkarl is not new – it first opened in 2008 – and does benefit from being housed in a stunning 17th century building, but it represents one of the most exciting things happening in Copenhagen cooking currently. Both eponymous chefs (Jakob and Jan respectively) bring much experience to their restaurant. They’ve gained Michelin stars in the past. Now, however, they are doing their own thing. They’re daring to be different. If the Michelin inspectors are looking for consistency, both across a menu and time and again, then they won’t necessarily find it at Mielcke & Hurtigkarl. The chefs are prepared to take risks, make dishes that not every guest will enjoy and pair unconventional ingredients. Their approach is, quite explicitly, “to hold nothing sacred.”
Even with these caveats, both your reviewer and his dining comrade were wowed by Mielcke & Hurtigkarl. Located in one of Copenhagen’s most prosperous districts (Frederiksberg) and set on the edge of a verdant park, it is hard not to fall in love with the place from the outset. We were greeted by a smiling waiter that immediately knew who we were – the English accents probably gave us away – and suggested we take in the view outside with an opening glass of champagne and some amuse bouches. It was a perfect way to begin. The Sommelier diligently presented us with three choices of fizz and we settled on a wonderful blanc de blancs from a garage producer, aged 81 months on lees pre-release. It was accompanied by a delicate set of dishes. Read the small print of what Mielcke & Hurtigkarl are trying to achieve and they describe a strong Japanese influence, both in terms of ingredients and aesthetics. Hamachi, daikon, yuzu and wasabi all featured in spades across the menu.
Although our tasting menu comprised only five formal courses (and accompanying glasses of wine), it is not called ‘the experience’ for nothing. We were informed that many smaller dishes would also be brought to the table either as accompaniments or as interludes. The final menu with which we were presented on leaving showed a total of 14 different compositions. Throughout, dining at Mielcke & Hurtigkarl could be considered a procession of culinary delight. Beyond the Japanese influence, seasonal, local and sustainable also play a strong role. Everything seemed thought-through, nothing out of place. Were your reviewer to consider stand-outs, it would be a tricky decision, but white asparagus and caviar would be one; a fallow deer and duck liver waffle another. Vegetarians are also thoroughly entertained and we appreciated the judicious substitution where relevant; scallop, for example, replaced by daikon.
Restaurants, of course, are in the business of selling not just food but ambience. In this respect, Mielcke & Hurtigkarl could not be faulted. There are only 12 tables with around 30 covers at maximum (a larger space for events is also available), allowing the venue to feel both lively and intimate. All the serving staff we encountered were enthused and seemingly delighted to talk with us. Particular plaudits to our Sommelier who also delivered some stunning choices including a 29-year old semi-oxidised Jura for the cheese course and a Tokaji made exclusively for the Danish market to pair with our desserts. No fine dining experiences come cheap, but Mielcke & Hurtigkarl hits your wallet to no worse an extent than other venues aiming (if not always achieving) to do similar things elsewhere. Mark this place for your next visit to Copenhagen.