Sierra de Gredos, Spanish
Alex Gunz
A Gourmand’s Guide to Gredos

Whisper it rather than shout it, and certainly don’t tell everyone, but something very exciting is happening in the Gredos region of Spain. Drive two hours northwest from Madrid, where diners lack no shortage of plush restaurants, to encounter a truly different experience. Three days in the region left your reviewer and his group of five dining comrades swooning for both more of its food and wine.

A Gourmand’s Guide to Gredos
Mediterranean, Bristol
Alex Gunz
COR: Blimey, that was good

From its name onwards, there is knowing coolness, a certain intentionality to what COR is seeking to achieve. It’s a place to watch in an upcoming district of Bristol. And if COR is seeking to ape what is arguably the best restaurant in England (Clare Smyth’s Core in plush Kensington, London), then why not? The team at Michelin have already awarded COR a Bib Gourmand; stars may beckon.

COR: Blimey, that was good
Spanish, Cardiff
Alex Gunz
Asador 44: Smokin’, Cardiff-style

Just moments from Cardiff’s Principality Stadium, central train station and main shopping street, diners can imagine themselves transported to Spain. Parador 44 is a wonderfully conceived venture, set up by an enterprising couple of brothers. Visitors can sip sherry, eat top Basque-influenced nosh and then sleep upstairs in a handful of boutique hotel rooms. There is every reason to do all three.

Asador 44: Smokin’, Cardiff-style
Mediterranean, Marylebone
Alex Gunz
Bellazul: Not quite the Mediterranean

It was not the most auspicious of starts. When my dining comrade and I descended on Bellazul it was pouring with rain. We arrived soaked. Welcome to England in April. It’s about as far from the Mediterranean as one could imagine. Open only for two months, Bellazul has the laudable intention of transporting diners to the sunnier climes of southern Europe. The venture is well-intentioned but does not totally succeed.

Bellazul: Not quite the Mediterranean
British, Marylebone
Alex Gunz
Boxcar: Every neighbourhood needs one

If New Quebec Street in Marylebone were my local high street, then I would be delighted. Luckily it is close to where your reviewer both lives and works. Zayna has been a long-standing favourite for curry. There’s also a great wine shop, a fishmonger and more. In addition, Boxcar is located on this street. Open since 2017, Gourmand Gunno corrected a long-standing anomaly by visiting it recently. Billed as a ‘neighbourhood restaurant’, it certainly constitutes a wonderful addition to the street, for both food and vibe.

Boxcar: Every neighbourhood needs one

Scandinavian

Ekstedt at the Yard: Smoke and Mirrors

Ekstedt at the Yard: Smoke and Mirrors

Eating out should be fun, right? Even better when chefs push boundaries and servers present their offerings with passion. It sounds so easy in principle, and I have no doubt that the eponymous chef behind this venture has all the above in mind. While there were flashes of absolute brilliance at Ekstedt, there were also moments when eating at this venue felt almost as if it were a chore. Three hours of food with a £145 bill per person (without considering drinks or service) constitutes a major commitment. Even if conversation with my dining comrade for the evening was superb, our time and money could arguably have been better spent elsewhere.

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Ekte: Left feeling cold

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Ekte: Left feeling cold

Rarely has the City been a destination for diners. Sure, it’s convenient for workers whose offices are nearby, but to make a journey there specifically for lunch or dinner and the venue would have to be pretty special. Ekte is not. It’s meant to be a showcase for Nordic food and has credibility in being backed by the owners of nearby stalwart 1 Lombard, but much like Scandinavia in general, your reviewer was left feeling cold by the whole experience.

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The Harcourt: Mixed messages

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The Harcourt: Mixed messages

It’s a puzzle trying to decide how to describe the Harcourt. Maybe as a first stab, it is a traditional English pub with Scandinavian influences offering food from the region with a modern European twist. The venue’s website (un)helpfully has the catchy moniker, “old, but new.” Confused? So were my comrade and I when we dined at the Harcourt on a recent weekday evening. There was a great atmosphere, but the food was not sufficiently impressive to justify the prices charged