Wild Honey (October 2012)

I am full of praise for Wild Honey and it only seems to get better. This was the first time I had been there since the minor refurbishments the restaurant undertook earlier this year and yet the atmosphere remains unchanged. One feels automatically enveloped in comfort, with the warm wooden walls, generous seats, well-spaced tables and a large mirror at the back (below which we were seated) creating an effect of wonderful spaciousness. The staff all had absolutely the right attitude, friendly and engaging yet discreet too. And, the food is superb: think of timeless classics with a twist of contemporary innovation. Although perhaps a bold combination, my soup comprising soft poached ‘Burford Brown’ egg, pink grapefruit, buckwheat and potato worked amazingly well with the acidity of the grapefruit acting as a perfect and refreshing foil to the more starchy potato. The overall effect was one of lightness, leaving me anticipating the main. The choice of veal was much more traditional, but also executed to perfection with the mash in particular acting as a good match. My dining comrades were similarly impressed with their options and a two-course lunch menu of this quality for £23 (or £26 should pudding be added) constitutes phenomenal value. The wine list also deserves mention and it is rare to see in a restaurant of this quality wines priced from sub-£20 a bottle. Our tempranillo at £18.50 was more than adequate for the occasion, making the whole event not only enjoyable, but also very reasonably priced. The chocolates that accompanied our coffee rounded the event off perfectly.