Lists are highly subjective things, but based on popular demand, your author has curated below his top five venues, sorted by category:

· All-time favourites: Cecconi, Hakkasan, Bocca di Lupo, La Petite Maison, The Palomar

· Impressed recently: Boxcar, Origin City, La Tasqueria (Madrid), Akoko, The Devonshire

· Disappointed recently: Dim-t, Jam Delish, Ekte, Estriatorio Milos, Baozolin

· For special occasions: Core, Sketch, Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal, Muse, The Five Fields

· Asian: Hakkasan (Chinese), Yautcha (Chinese), Supawan (Thai), Plaza Khao Gaeng (Thai), Jinjuu (Korean)

· British: St John, Scott’s, Fallow, The Devonshire, Hawksmoor

· French: Sketch, La Petite Maison, La Dame du Pic, Club Gascon, Pied a Terre

· Indian: Trishna, Gymkhana, Manthan, Bombay Bustle, Jamavar

· Italian: Cecconi, Bcoca di Lupo, Olivomare, Luca, Manteca

· Japanese: Zuma, Dinings, Titu, Abeno, Ikeda

· The year in review: 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020

· Watch this space, more sections to follow…