Fifteen years is a long time, particularly for a restaurant in London. Yet, since 2003, Sketch has remained a unique venue, a cavern of opulence and decadence, which also serves exceptionally good food. It is no mean feat for Sketch still to be almost as trendy now as when it opened and the fact that it is only one of nine locations in London to hold two Michelin stars speaks to the quality of its offering. Diners should be prepared for an experience. Located in a Grade II-listed townhouse in Mayfair, behind the discrete Georgian façade lies three bars, two restaurants and several private rooms for hire. Each is decorated in a unique style with the jewel in the crown being what Sketch calls its Lecture Room & Library. The rope across the grand staircase which provides access to this area hints at exclusivity and the sense of anticipation builds as one mounts the stairs past highly original (not to say somewhat eccentric) artworks. With a grand flourish the doors to the room are opened and diners behold a space of calm refinement which inescapably speaks of wealth. There is a hushed calm – perhaps a sense of awe – as you take in the rich colours of the furnishings, the widely spaced tables and the beautiful décor, a harmony of reds, yellows and oranges (courtesy of renowned interior designer Gabhan O’Keeffe). With this sort of build-up, expectations inevitably run high regarding the food, but they were fortunately not disappointed and the two stars awarded seemed wholly justified. In this sort of location, it just seemed wrong not to try the tasting menu. Full marks to Sketch for the originality of its composition (a trait evident across both its omnivorous and vegetarian menus), combination of ingredients, presentation and pairing of wines. From my series, the braised ox cheek was the stand-out dish, daringly – yet brilliantly – paired with a rhubarb compote and English mustard. Throughout, the sense of theatre was also abundantly evident. Sketch was able to make something as relatively mundane as a leek into a show-piece. When presented to my dining comrade for her second dish, it was lifted out of a brick, placed delicately upon her plate and then covered with grated black truffle. We both ended with Pierre Gagnaire’s famous ‘grand dessert’ – two flights of three puddings, served in miniature format. Of course, an experience such as this does not come cheap, particularly with wines added in, but the price (~£250/head) is indicative of precisely the fact that dining here should be a special occasion. It is also broadly comparable to other similar venues in London. No review, however, would be complete without at least one gripe: it seemed anomalous that the vegetarian tasting menu should contain one course less than its omnivorous alternative. Instead of the discordance (just a palate cleanser brought as an after-thought for my comrade while I tucked in to lobster), I would have been happy with one course less. Something for Sketch to work on before our next visit…