Want an antidote to power dining in Mayfair, but still an opportunity to enjoy incredibly high-quality food? Try Lucknow 49, the third Indian restaurant to have appeared on Maddox Street in as many years (after Bombay Bustle and Kanishka), but by far the most homely. The style of cooking is Awadhi, namely from the region of Lucknow in the north east of India, close to the Nepalese border. 49, more prosaically, refers to the street number. The first thing any diner is likely to notice is the décor. The site itself is small, but its relative narrowness is more than compensated for by the banquettes and comfy sofas. Informality could be the middle name of this restaurant, with the relaxed vibe reflected not just in the furnishings but the attitude of the staff too. Next consider the pricing. While not cheap, at £10-12 for a typical starter and no more than £20 for any main, and this is bargain territory by Mayfair standards. So far, so good. The menu does not push too many boundaries in terms of headlines (biryanis and tikkas both feature), but where the venue really excelled was in the sheer effort put into each dish. The working premise is that the effective use of spice should do the talking while the slow cooking of each dish then allows for an appropriate layering and integration. Our lamb shank saw the meat fall effortlessly of the bone and each bite prompted a strong desire for another. If anything, a baby aubergine main simmered for presumably many hours in a cashew nut curry sauce was even more intense in terms of its flavour profile. One final example of attention to detail was the galawat kebab (lamb patty) starter my comrade and I shared. Apparently over 50 different spices went into the composition of this humble dish. Even for a seasoned dessert sceptic such as myself, I had to recognise not just how aesthetically pleasing and innovative our pudding was, but also what a unique taste sensation it provided. Cottage cheese dumplings soaked in milk and then served with caramelised rose petals and pistachio tasted almost indescribably so much better than the printed words on the menu may have suggested. Was there anything not to like? Yes, one gripe: don’t play 1990s dance music at an elevated volume on a weekday lunchtime in a half-full restaurant! Maybe the staff like it and maybe it works when the venue is fuller in the evening, but it just felt a little out of place when we visited – not that it would in any way detract from returning.
Lucknow 49: Go now!