The Garrison opened its doors in 2003 and I have been visiting since 2009, long before Bermondsey became a trendy part of town. It is therefore always reassuring to return to a well-known and much-loved venue and to find that the experience remains as satisfying as ever. Both the terms ‘neighbourhood local’ and ‘gastropub’ have a tendency to be mightily over-used, and often inaccurately. Nonetheless, The Garrison merits the application of each. The place was buzzing when a group of us visited for a late lunch on a recent Sunday afternoon. Despite being only 10 minutes’ walk from London Bridge, Bermondsey Street seems almost like stepping back in time. Maybe it’s the architecture, but there is a slight feeling of yesteryear London. The sight of the Shard, evident from the pub’s windows, creates a wonderful juxtaposition. The food is far from dated and where The Garrison succeeds lies in combining the classic British (say, a Sunday Roast) with the more-cutting edge (ingredients such as miso aubergine and pomegranate seeds, for example, being in abundance). Juxtapositions do work. When we arrived the venue was packed, so much so that our table was not immediately available. The servers, however, went out of their way to apologise and we were accommodated elsewhere, able to enjoy some pre-food drinks. The wait was worth it once we got onto food. The taste sensation of the courgette carpaccio, goat curd and hazelnut starter served with a lemon and honey dressing (pictured) lived up to its visual impression. Others in our group raved about their potted shrimp with mace butter starter. This was one of the Garrison’s specials of the day. A blackboard offers information on these, which provide some bonus options among the half-dozen or so starters and mains on the printed menus. The roast beef centrepiece I sampled could not be faulted for the generosity of the portion or the presentation, even if the meat on was slightly too fatty. We still had rooms for puddings – and these pleased too. Beer is the main drinking option (don’t forget, you are in a pub!), but the wine list had some competitively priced and successful offerings too. The bill did add up, although if you are price-conscious, then it’s possible just about to get a drink and a roast at the £20 mark. Whatever you choose, it will be worth it.
The Garrison: Still firing on all cylinders