Tradition and heritage are all well and good, but just because something worked in 1851 doesn’t mean it still will in 2020. It is therefore highly reassuring to see Scott’s continuing to deliver. It may have come a long way from its roots as an oyster warehouse, while the restaurant proper has migrated upwards from Haymarket to Mayfair, but the title of this review says it all: Scott’s, arguably, does the best fish in London. Not even COVID has held the venue back, with Scott’s proudly reopening in July and the restaurant packed – as usual – when my comrade and I recently returned for a highly enjoyable lunch.
It’s more than the fish though that keeps the guests coming back. I’ve written elsewhere about the ineffable notion of atmosphere. I still don’t know how to define it, but it just ‘works’ at Scott’s. Diners feel cosseted yet comforted, privileged but not patronised. Maybe the décor provides a valuable analogy: the soft and luxurious carpet that adorns the floor sits very comfortably with the modern art work on the walls. Oh, and did I say? The food is damned good too.
While oysters were a tempting opening proposition, we went straight for starters followed by mains. Name your fish or crustacean and you will almost certainly find it at Scott’s. There’s shellfish cocktail followed by deep-fried haddock with mushy peas (i.e. fish and chips) for the less adventurous; or, if you want to push the boat out, then the world is your oyster (neither pun intended). We were in the latter group and both my comrade and I commenced with sautéed monkfish cheeks – the best bit of the fish – and snails, served with bacon and Bordelaise. The snails sit on the side, I should add. This is the sort of dish I could eat every day, bank balance permitting. It’s rich, a little bit naughty and yet deeply satisfying. Mains sat on the more conventional end of the spectrum; half a lobster for my comrade and blackened miso salmon (pictured) for me. Both were executed with verve and panache and mine certainly tasted as good as it looked. We drank well too: a lovely white from the Macon region of Burgundy followed by a delicious digestif by Antinori; an Italian take on Sauternes. The experience doesn’t come cheap, but it is assuredly worth every penny.