Napoleon’s armies were vanquished by the British at the Battle of Maida in 1806. King Ferdinand IV of Naples and Sicily subsequently made General Sir John Stuart the Count of Maida. This brief history lesson explains why the area of the Edgware Road just to the North and West of the Regent’s Canal at Little Venice became known as Maida Vale. Many pubs were erected to mark the outcome of this battle. The original Hero of Maida pub on the Edgware Road shut in 1992 and is now a skin clinic. The current Hero of Maida pub sits on the site of the former Truscott Arms and comprises not just pub, but also upstairs dining room and accommodation too. It is a heroic effort on the part of Harcourt Inns (owner of several other London pubs) to bring this bit of local lore back to the area.
The overall effort could be described as heroic – the chef cooked us a top meal and the front-of-house kept up a cheery demeanour even though our group of four were virtually the only guests in the dining room on a recent weekday night. This was a pity since the team has made a real go with the venue, emphasising the beauty of the Victorian building with its high corniced ceiling and large windows, but also modernising it. The upstairs room is kitted out in a range of blues with a comfortable leather banquette – where we sat – dominating the back wall. The menu comprises British and French classics with the idea being less about the pushing of boundaries and more about competent execution. Diners have around half-a-dozen each of starters and mains from which to choose, with pricing at around £10 for the former and £20 for the latter. It would have been hard for the venue to have messed up my starter of oysters, and my main of venison stew was deeply satisfying; tender meat in a hearty and flavourful sauce. Where the restaurant was particularly heroic, however, was in its vegetarian dishes, which proved to be the arguable highlight across our group. A roast pumpkin, black fig, goat curd and hazelnut starter spoke of confidence in pairing and was presented beautifully. The same could be said of the wild mushroom risotto, which came topped with an innovative flourish of fried artichokes. The wine list also deserves note since it offered a broad and thoughtful range with some pleasing options, particularly from the New World. Without doubt, this pub is a valuable addition to the local area. John Stuart would have been pleased.