A decade or so ago, Gordon Ramsay was, arguably, one of the most famous chefs in the UK. He has certainly been responsible for a subsequent generation of culinary luminaries such as Clare Smyth and Jason Atherton. Current consensus, however, veers to the critical for Ramsay – maybe he has lost his touch? – and when Lucky Cat opened in late 2019 (unfortunately just pre-pandemic), critics seemingly rushed to be sceptical. Sure, maybe London does not need another slightly edgy yet still very commercial pan-Asian venture (think Roka, Zuma et al), but my comrade and I were recently impressed by a lunchtime visit to Lucky Cat. Even if Gordon is not cooking their personally, the Ramsay touch is still evident. The manta seems to be one of dare to be (a little) different and try and do it very well. Perhaps the biggest bugbear of the critics at launch was the levels of service at Lucky Cat, but in this respect, we could find no reason to fault the restaurant. The venue did not hesitate to move me when I complained that the initial table we had been offered was located too close to the kitchen. Further, all our requests were fulfilled throughout the meal and service was neither inept or intrusive; simply down-the-line solid. Onto the food and, sure, it’s arguably the usual pan-Asian mish-mash of sushi, steak and the inevitable black cod, but the execution was generally highly competent (perhaps an 8 out of 10), even if not truly mind-blowing. We were not given too much help from our server vis-à-vis choosing, but I opted for three starters for my comrade and I to share, followed by a main (although we both chose the same dish for the latter). Our salt and pepper prawns were better than many sampled elsewhere and pleasingly ungreasy. Tuna tartare was also a success (firm and succulent), although the ceviche lacked depth and flavour. Szechuan steak mains were undermined by the lack of tenderness in the meat, although the dressing which accompanied them was truly excellent, zingy and slightly mouth-numbing. An artichoke side also showed inspired originality, as well as tasting good. We stuck only to water and so it is not possible to pass comment on the drinks range. However, at close on £100/head, you know you’re in Mayfair, and Lucky Cat may well do better with those on corporate expenses than drop-in diners. Gordon did make an appearance while we there. He seemed enthused by the vibe at Lucky Cat and our experience would suggest that a revisit is deserved.