My mother always told me that you should just a venue by its toilets and in this respect – as in many others – it is hard not to be wowed by Isabel. Each is lavish in its size and decoration, with wallpaper, gilt and multiple mirrors. Take these as a microcosm of the broader restaurant. It’s all about opulence, but done in a classy and tasteful fashion. Of course, this being Mayfair, the prices are correspondingly elevated – but the experience is certainly worth it, especially if someone else is paying.
The inspiration behind the venue is a gentleman called Juan Santa Cruz. Formerly an investment banker, he turned designer and restaurateur. Isabel is his second venture (following Casa Cruz in Notting Hill). While the loos came later in my recent visit to the restaurant, if first impressions count, then Isabel certainly scores with a bang. Diners enter a wonderfully fitted out room. A central bar (big and brassy, yet also very classy) initially draws the eye, with tables arranged all around it. The wallpaper is a feature too in this room, apparently adorned with gold leaf. Despite this initial love affair, if one were to gripe, then the complaint may be along the lines of style over substance. The acoustics in the place were poor and one often almost had to shout to one’s neighbour in order to be heard.
A similar charge could be levelled at the food. It was all so beautiful to look at (and mostly to taste), but the portion sizes distinctly lacked substance. At £20+ for starters and mains pushing £40, diners might justifiably expect more. Mediterranean is the main culinary angle, with a few South American twists. Our group shared a range of starters, with the burrata (pictured) and a dish of heirloom tomatoes and capers being particular highlights. With dishes so simple, choice of ingredients clearly matters and in this respect it would be hard to fault Isabel. Among the mains, a pan-fried lamb loin stood out, although with only four forkfuls of meat, one portion is barely enough. Puddings also pleased. Tarte tatin was done well (although quite as good as in Maison Francois) and caramelised figs worked nicely with honey ice cream. Service throughout was exemplary and plaudits to the sommelier for his constant work and interaction. While there is much to like about Isabel, this reviewer would choose La Petite Maison over it if looking for a similar experience.