The dictionary says that the term ‘fallow’ means farmland that has been ploughed and harrowed but is then left for a period without being sown in order to restore its fertility and avoid surplus production. Although an ancient concept, it also has a wonderfully modern resonance, according well with all things sustainable. Fallow, one of the hottest new openings of 2020, takes this idea as its guiding principle and successfully pulls off the act of being both a right-on and very cool venue. The pedigree of the chefs (all ex-Heston Blumenthal) counts for something, but this is modern British cooking at its very best.
My scheduled visit last year was, like with many things, delayed owing to the pandemic. The wait made the anticipation all the greater and it is pleasing to report that Fallow only surpassed expectations. Lunching on a warm spring day when the restaurant’s tables spread into pedestrianised Heddon Street represented a wonderful way to experience the venue. With the restaurant trade having indeed lain fallow during lockdown, its fertility is now renewed. The whole street was buzzing and every table occupied. Reservations are strictly necessary, with opportunistic walk-ins almost impossible. Cool music streamed across the street. An almost holiday-like atmosphere prevailed.
Even with such a positive disposition, it was pleasing to see Fallow deliver on the culinary front. The team keep it simple, with the menu comprising around half a dozen each of snacks, starters and mains. Sadly the venue’s signature cod head dish was sold out (although my dining comrade had been lucky enough to enjoy it on a previous occasion), but there was more than enough to keep us comfortably occupied. While pondering on our principal dishes, we shared a plate of corn ribs and a pair of fallow scrumpets. Item one does what you expect: take some corn, shave it to look like ribs, griddle it and then present with salt and lime. Voila: both melt in the mouth tasty and nicely sustainable. Item two – the fallow scrumpet – was arguably the best across our lunch. It should win a prize just for its name, even if the term means simply a cross between a scone and a crumpet. Think of it as a tightly packed and deliciously intense breadcrumbed veal patty served with a dash of zingily sexy gherkin relish on the top. Where do you go after this? Well, the deer tartare started was pretty damned good, with the hazelnut accompaniment acting as a great foil to the meat. Our main (we both opted for the same) of lemon sole with English asparagus was the epitome of spring. The food almost glowed and it tasted wonderfully light, allowing for the wilful turning of a blind eye for the brown butter sauce. We washed all this down with a lovely white Bordeaux blend, chosen from an intelligently well compiled wine list. No complaints all round; friendly and efficient service and pricing in line with comparable venues. My top post lockdown meal out so far!