When Gourmand Gunno first travelled to Mexico many years ago he was told that the Mexicans believed their cuisine to be the third-best in the world. This was a clever notion: why try to claim you’re better than the French or the Italians (who apparently ranked numbers one and two)? At the same time though, you’re making a clear statement of intent about how you believe your food should be regarded. Even if this ranking is certainly open to debate, it is still fair to wonder just why there are so few restaurants serving genuine Mexican food in the world’s major cities. The good news for Londoners is that KOL seeks to address this anomaly. It delivers admirably.
KOL should have opened in the spring of last year. With various lockdowns, it managed only six weeks of serving customers during 2020, but even in this short time, it had garnered a must-visit reputation. It was a delight then to dine there earlier this week, with KOL being fully functioning again as of mid-May and tables almost impossible to secure. The reason KOL has become so popular is that a huge amount of thoughtfulness has gone into the whole operation. The Chef/Patron, Santiago Lastra, is Mexican and his angle is unambiguously about trying to recreate the country’s authenticity rather than play to anything trendier or, God-forbid, Tex-Mex. Attention to detail is superlative. The look and feel of the venue is reminiscent of what might plausibly be found in Mexico City. Of particular note is the deep orange hue of the walls which are adorned with local earthenware and pottery. Presentation and art figures throughout the experience with the kitchen located bang in the centre of the venue. This allows diners to see the team at work. It is a wonderful snapshot into efficient collaboration. Everyone appeared to be working in harmony. Think of it as akin to immersive theatre. For the even more intrepid (and financially well-off) customer, there is a dedicated ‘private’ kitchen with accompanying chef’s table.
KOL describes its food as having ‘Mexican soul’ but using British produce. It’s a nice angle and plays both to the themes of authenticity and provenance. A seemingly humble bowl of broth brought gratis before the meal proper speaks to the venue’s capabilities. That two inches of liquid can pack so much flavour intensity – of crab meat and chilli – was quite remarkable. All diners eat off a set menu, albeit with one or two choices. At lunch, this comprises either four or six small courses; for dinner, the range extends to six or nine. Almost everything that I and my dining comrade sampled (she chose off a vegetarian menu) impressed. Throughout, the story was consistently about artful composition and flavour intensity. Memorable experiences included the green asparagus first dish in which we both partook, where the scotch bonnet chilli was subtly yet harmoniously overlaid. My octopus main was also a delight, highly flavoursome and paired intriguingly with bone marrow and a seaweed macha. One final observation – and again, another indication of just how thoughtfully enterprising KOL has conceived its whole experience – is that almost all the wines available come from Central and Eastern Europe. This is far from conventional, but an inspired decision on the part of the Sommelier. Our Georgian white (which was unfiltered and slightly oxidised) was an inventive match, which worked. Additionally, there is a wide range of Mezcals available. In summary, an awful lot to like. The challenge is to secure a table.