The shoes of the Gay Hussar are big ones in which to step. Noble Rot’s second venture, located on the same site as this former London establishment, nonetheless does the job admirably. Homage to the Hussar is evident, from the artistic triptych of Soho life that adorns one wall on the first floor dining room through to a few original menu items that remain, albeit somewhat reinterpreted. After the success of their original Fitzrovia venture, the Noble Rot team have imposed their clear stamp in Soho.
Beyond the impressive wine list (for the uninitiated, the term ‘noble rot’ relates to a grey mould that is deliberately cultivated on certain grapes to aid the production of sweet wines), the kitchen staff have blended French classics with the best of British and a particular emphasis on coastal produce. The overall impression is of a gentleman’s club that has adapted itself well for the third decade of the 21st Century.
On our recent weekday lunchtime visit, the venue was almost full with a pleasingly mixed demographic; young to old and Soho trendies through to out-of-town visitors. Our server struck me as somewhat aloof, but when it came to what mattered – the food, drink and that ineffable thing, atmosphere – Noble Rot certainly delivered. What better representation of the restaurant’s angle than to peruse the menu over a glass of one of England’s best sparkling wines (Hambledon) combined with a wickedly decadent mini choux bun comprising duck liver parfait and Tokajo jelly?
Around half a dozen of both starters and mains are on offer, with the former priced in the £10-15 range and the latter at roughly double. My pictured paté was not only a visual delight, but also incredibly tasty; a thoughtful combination of herbs and pistachio as well as meat, that felt lighter than many and appropriate for the season. Sticking with the summer theme, my main comprised rabbit braised in rosé wine paired with a tomato, cucumber and saffron sauce. I rarely eat bunny, but this was a fine example, lean and flavoursome. My comrade also gave the thumbs up to his dishes, particularly the sea bass main.
For wine lovers, the venue is an inevitable joy, with an extensive list, available on an iPad, for ease of use. Bargains can be found, and we were delighted with our Pinot Noir from Baden, which worked as an admirable match across the food. The great thing about Noble Rot is that there is every reason to linger. Post food and wine, we progressed to cheese and port, followed by coffee. Another bottle might have been in order had it not been for other commitments. Revel in the experience.