Similar to almost every other nice part of London, and especially those with water, the Grand Union Canal area in W9 has gone through a massive gentrification in recent years. Back when this reviewer first moved to the district in the late 1990s, what is now The Waterway was a venue called The Paddington Stop. It was a pub for the local housing estate and the only food it sold was cheese or ham sandwiches. The Waterway constitutes a massive improvement (albeit from a low base), but look the opposite way from the placid canal and your view is still of a concrete-clad estate from the 1960s. Furthermore, your reviewer and his dining comrade came away from the Waterway somewhat unsure of its angle: is it a restaurant masquerading as a pub or perhaps the other way round?
The outside dining area is at least a marvel to behold – assuming your view is of the canal – and has been decorated thoughtfully with white fixtures and floral arrangements under a large marquee. Have no doubt, it’s a perfect summer venue and at weekends, queues are regularly to be seen. Inside, the vibe is about a snug and comforting space. The Paddington Stop’s pool tables have long disappeared and been replaced by comfy sofas and a roaring fire in winter. Maybe with so many assets and a seemingly captive local audience, the Waterway doesn’t need to think too hard about its food menu. We felt that many of the options were over-engineered while others sat uncomfortably beside each other. Not all mayonnaise needs to contain truffle oil nor every yoghurt dipping sauce to be infused with fennel – especially if the additions are more for effect than taste (as we found when they appeared with our starters). Similarly, the ubiquitous burger seemed an incongruous presence on the menu when placed beside a piece of grilled swordfish.
Our conclusion was that the Waterway might have been better off sticking to things which the chef/team knew they could cook consistently well rather than perhaps trying too hard and spreading themselves too thinly. My swordfish main (pictured) is a case in point. It looked phenomenal and sounded great, but actually tasted very average. I am still not sure what exactly the promised harissa pesto brought to the dish, and the quantity of it present could only be described as sparse. The drinks were also far from an unqualified success. Our glass of house fizz was very satisfying but the range of wines available in 250ml format was uninspiring and our Verdejo deeply pedestrian. There’s work to be done here in this reviewer’s opinion. Canal views will only take you so far.