The eponymous Imad greeted us smiling on our arrival at his restaurant. He has every right to be happy. Not only is his restaurant a true success, but it also marks the culmination of a journey from Syria. Previously a restaurateur in Damascus, its capital, he was forced to leave during the recent war and eventually relocated to London (via a stint cooking for other refugees in Calais) where he was granted asylum. The opening of his restaurant was delayed owing to the pandemic, but with just over six months its belt now, the Syrian Kitchen is ticking along nicely.
The restaurant is located on the top floor of the Kingly Court complex in the space formerly occupied by Darjeeling Kitchen, which has now moved to a bigger premises in Covent Garden. Based on our experience at the Syrian Kitchen, this template may be followed by Imad. The venue is light and airy, kitted out simply, allowing the food to do most of the talking. Although we were the first guests to the venue on a recent weekday lunchtime, when we left, almost every table had been filled – and rightly so, given the quality of the food.
It is rare that any dish should prove so good that our group of three ordered it twice. All dishes at Imad’s are intended for sharing – the mode du jour, it seems, across London – allowing diners to experience a broad spectrum of offerings. The (twice) winning dish was Imad’s Zahara Harra. Pictured, it is baked cauliflower served with garlic and coriander, topped with olive oil and tahini. Simple, but so good, this is deeply textured and flavoursome comfort food. Super-smooth hummus heavily laden with sumac was another winner from the starters, while our muhammara (roasted pepper paste) also pleased. Mains did not quite meet the highs of the dishes that came before, although plaudits to the lamb fillet served with sundried tomatoes.
Imad’s wine list impressed as well. Not only do they offer the cult Lebanese wine Chateau Musar by the glass in both red and white versions, but beyond, there are some well-selected options. Our group rated its bottle of Mencia from Bierzo. The meal ended with traditional Syrian coffee – forget trying to order an espresso or cappuccino here – thick, strong and flavoured with cloves and cardamom. All in, we paid ~£50/head – although it would be possible to dine more cheaply – and it was worth every penny.