The former home of the London College of Music’s concert hall now comprises the site of Sucre, one of last year’s hottest openings. The duo behind the venue launched the original Sucre in Buenos Aires where it became an instant hit. For Londoners, Sucre offers a hip take on the decadence of old-world Argentina.
Beyond the food and drink (the basement contains a cocktail bar), the venue itself is a sight to behold. It’s a picture of opulence, with floor-to-ceiling marble columns and stunning chandeliers, made from cut-glass decanters. From our table right at the back of the restaurant we were able to look out and observe Sucre’s full glory. An open kitchen at the back provides additional entertainment.
Argentina is a great culinary angle for the current zeitgeist, offering a distinct regional identity but also acknowledging multiple international influences. It seemed almost obligatory, however, to begin with Sucre’s empanadas: for the uninitiated, a national snack, not unlike a slightly pimped mini Cornish pasty. Both the option filled with tuna and smoked paprika as well as a cheddar, chilli and onion offering proved so popular with our group that we were obliged to order a second round. In general terms, Sucre’s snacking section of around half a dozen options priced at £7-8 provides a great vista for the kitchen’s capabilities. Beyond empandas, the restaurant’s take on the humble tortilla (served here with nduja and aioli) was a notable standout, but even something as basic as a bowl of olives was lifted at Sucre by an aji verde sauce.
The main event, of course, at Sucre is its open-fire cooking, which is particularly suited to beef, one of Argentina’s most successful culinary exports. Flank steak, striploin and bone-in ribeye were the three cuts on offer when we visited and the majority of our group opted to share several dishes of the latter. It was tender and smoky, just how beef should be done. Non-carnivores can rest assured that there are fish and vegetarian options available. It might almost be too good to be true were everything a success at Sucre and the kitchen did deliver up some relative flops. Mackerel escabeche (marinated fish) was a notable fail from the snack options and the cheesecake dessert many of us sampled felt distinctly bland. Sucre also forgot to deliver a chicory salad we had requested to accompany a risotto main. Service, at least, was generally superb, with a knowledgeable and enthusiastic team, happy to proffer recommendations. Pricing too is fair for central London standards. Sucre is mostly on song and should be going places.