My last visit to The Bleeding Heart was around a decade ago. Much has changed in London in the ensuing period. However, at this venue, it is almost like being in a time warp. Wind the clock back to 2012, or even 2002/ 1992 and I doubt the experience would have been much different. Maybe there is something reassuring about old school French cooking in times of turbulence. Think of dining here as a rebuff to the modern zeitgeist. We loved the service and the wine, although the food left something to be desired.
Located in a quaint courtyard close to Farringdon, The Bleeding Heart is an institution for City workers – or at least those of a certain age, who like to ‘lunch’ the old fashioned way, with at least a bottle of wine. Clearly the venue must be doing something right since every table was packed on our visit. Perhaps it’s that feeling of coming home, sitting in a very familiar looking room. If it’s art nouveau posters and real French waiters then – mais oui – this is the place for you. The main dining room is full of cossetting comfort and nothing too challenging. For the more hardy diner (or those visiting in summer), there is also an outside terrace.
A well-mixed negroni on the table when your reviewer arrived (ordered by his dining comrade) got things off to a good start. Conversation dominated proceedings, but we were eventually prompted to consider what to eat. While I normally may have wanted to spend longer perusing a menu, at The Bleeding Heart, there is really no need. You could almost write it in your head now, unprompted. This is prawn cocktail or escargot territory for starters with beouf leading the mains. There’s a pot au feu for those desirous and vegetarians are catered for – just about. My comrade selected prawn cocktail with which to begin. I took the crab paté. His was a masterpiece of 1970s kitsch, with its taste profile matching the presentation. I almost felt like I’d gone back in time too with my rabbit main, served at The Bleeding Heart in a mustard and pea sauce. It was competently executed but far from outstanding. At least our bottle of white – refreshingly, from Spain rather than France – pleased highly. Tarte tatin delivered too for our dessert, but this is a venue you go more for the vibe. Settle in for a long and boozy lunch. Just don’t have too high expectations.