It is a rare and beautiful thing when you and your dining comrade can leave a restaurant with absolutely no complaints. This is what Clare Smyth’s Core achieves – and does so seemingly effortlessly. This was your reviewer’s first visit since the venue had gained its third Michelin Star, but nothing has changed. Clare is still hard at work in the kitchen, smiling and greeting guests as they arrive.
Eating at Core feels somewhat like coming home. It was not just Clare who greeted us with apparent familiarity but also the Head Sommelier and several other members of the team. It’s a small gesture which doesn’t cost a lot of effort, but a very memorable one. The dining space is spacious enough not to feel capacious but small enough to feel intimate. The venue probably seats 40 or so covers and was mostly full when we arrived late in the evening for our mid-week dinner booking. From our prime table at the back of the restaurant, we could see the open kitchen and the team at work.
Although it is possible to eat a la carte at Core, the main event, which we selected, is the seven-course tasting menu. Once amuse-bouches and petits fours are included, then the total rises to nine. Each is an event. ‘The beginning’, as it is titled on the Core menu provides a wonderful insight into what is to come. We both received four different items (mine styled for an omnivorous palate and my comrade’s being vegetarian). I regularly marvel at just how talented chefs can pack so much flavour intensity into an item little wider than an inch in size. My jellied eel was so unbelievably good – redolent of the sea – and we both loved our pumpkin gougeres. As mentioned previously, as soon as we embarked on the formal part of the tasting menu, each dish almost came close to surpassing the prior. There were no duds. Above and beyond the taste sensation, what gets Core its stars is the artful presentation. Each appears as a masterpiece. Stand-out would be veal shortbread with honey, mustard and kohlrabi among my septet and the Sharpham Farm spelt with celery from my comrade’s. We both concluded with the same puddings and the ‘core apple’ – a wonderful composition once again – shows both the playfulness and skilfulness of the team. Plaudits too to the Sommelier, who offered some genius pairings. It was a delight to see one of Ian Naudé’s wines featured and a glass of 2009 Bordeaux is always appreciated. Sure, the whole experience does not come cheap, but is comparable to other similarly esteemed London venues – it’s just that Core is so much better and feels worth every penny.