A name such as the Pig and Butcher leaves little to the imagination; you know what you’re likely to get. We were impressed therefore to see not only an elevation and execution of all things meaty, but also delivery on dishes beyond the obvious. That the Pig and Butcher, an Islington gastropub, has been operating for a decade and was packed on the recent weeknight evening when we visited is testament to its success.
The venue plays very much to its history. Apparently a hostelry was present on the site in the 1800s. Produce from the nearby fields supplied the kitchens. While there are unlikely to be any animals now grazing in the vicinity of Islington, the restaurant’s angle is about dedicated sourcing from trusted British suppliers. The Pig and Butcher is also firmly angled in the 21st Century with a décor speaking of broadly stripped back minimalism. Pack the punters in and let the food speak for itself. This it certainly did, even if the service left something to be desired.
Menu-wise, surprise-surprise, it’s porcine dominated. However, there’s chicken, beef, fish and even a small handful of vegetarian options available. Diners choose from around half a dozen each of starters and mains, with the former coming in at around £10 and the latter in the £25 a dish territory. Even if Pig & Butcher calls itself a gastropub, pricing is arguably more in restaurant territory. Fortunately, the price premium seemed merited to us. As the photo attests, presentation and attention to detail throughout was superlative. Unfortunately, however, the effect was somewhat let down by the rather gauche delivery from our servers. Cutlery was dropped on the floor on more than one occasion and dishes were brought to the table with little more than a perfunctory grunt. At least, the taste experience more than compensated. My pork brawn composition with which I began (pictured) was a medley of flavours and textures, with all the listed items on the menu playing both starring and complementary roles. For the mains, my comrade and I opted to share a piece of saddleback pork and a caramelised cauliflower offering. Both were excellent and acted as foils to each other. Given me hen of the woods (a mushroom, for the unaware) and I am generally very happy. Its inherent savoury meatiness augmented the pork. Meanwhile, the addition of hazelnuts – a simple yet effective touch – really helped lift the cauliflower dish. We paired all the above with a relatively rustic Portuguese red blend, chosen from a wine list which could perhaps of offered more. Nonetheless, there was more than enough with which to be pleased at the Pig and Butcher. A revisit would certainly be in order.