Gourmand Gunno has eaten a lot of steak in his life. Despite being married to a vegetarian, there remains something deeply satisfying – primeval even – about tucking into a bit of cow. While diners do not lack options for such an experience in London, it was a pleasure recently to return to Goodman for the first time since before the pandemic. The cooking remains on top form, albeit that you are paying elevated Mayfair prices.
The venue has been around for more than a decade and has garnered a justified reputation for keeping it simple but effective. The Goodman franchise has also expanded from beyond Mayfair to outposts in the City and Canary Wharf. Across the group, the angle is all about sourcing and then ageing the meat. Goodman’s comes from three different locations – the Lake District, Spain and Nebraska – and is then dry aged on site to bring out as much concentration of flavour as possible. The day’s cuts are displayed on a chalk board. In some ways, this touch – along with the servers dressed in whites – is aimed at giving the impression that diners are in a glorified butchers, albeit a very posh one. Décor is minimalist, allowing the food to do the talking.
Our group of three did each take a starter (tuna tartare for me; soup and prawn tempura for my comrades), and while pleasing, the main event was the steak. We opted for 900g of British porterhouse, which was everything we had hoped for: tender, smoky, juicy – with very little fat. It was presented with grace and consumed quickly but appreciatively. Sides also pleased as did our choice of wine. One of our party was Spanish and yet with a US-heavy wine list, I opted for a Tempranillo from Napa. It proved an excellent choice, with its bold flavours pairing off well against the meat. Word of warning, however, none of this comes cheap, especially with very few wines below £50 a bottle (ours was £68). Dine here delightfully, but ideally on a corporate account.