When visiting a part of England not known to your reviewer, the natural response is to do some research beforehand. On this occasion, it involved asking several friends and colleagues who hailed from/ had visited the area. All were unequivocal in their approbation of the Gunton Arms, a view echoed by the local taxi driver who drove us to this destination. Fortunately, the advice paid off. If on the north Norfolk coast near Cromer, then this is the place to go.
Although inland, it's certainly hard to beat the location: an 18th century inn sited at the edge of a 1,000 acre deer park. On our arrival – just as the sun was setting – we could see the animals at close range. A certain part of us wished we had booked to stay the night at the venue, since rooms are available. We would then have been able to wander the park the day after. Next time. Regardless, the two hours we spent at the Gunton Arms were delightful. The venue showed more vibe and atmosphere than anywhere else we visited in the area, with the crowd of a slightly younger and more cosmopolitan nature than we might have hoped for. Perhaps it’s a function of the owner, who has not only brought in a top chef (who worked directly under Mark Hix) but also a large part of his modern art collection. Guests get to marvel at the likes of Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin nestled amidst the more traditionally bucolic (a roaring fire and elk antlers).
Onto the menu and there is a clear nod both to local and seasonal produce. Sadly there was no venison on show on the occasion of our visit (not in season, apparently), but there was the option to enjoy the salmon that the restaurant had smoked itself. Cromer crab did at least feature as well as local Norfolk cheese. From the seasonal side, wild garlic, asparagus and more were on show. Traditionalists can enjoy the likes of a burger or fish and chips. While there was an initial expression of incredulity on the part of my vegetarian comrade than no veggie main options were listed, our server did subsequently produce a dedicated menu for her, which comprised three starters and a similar number of mains.
I began with one of the restaurant’s daily specials, nicely displayed on a chalk board brought to our table. It’s always a delight to sample sweetbreads (lamb offal) and here their juiciness contrasted well with the richer, earthier sauce in which they were served. My comrade’s assembly of multi-coloured beetroot and blue cheese also pleased. Being so close to the coast, I went for a fish main (pictured), which artfully combined monkfish with local crab and asparagus. While the crab was not as good as other sampled in the area, it was more than compensated for by one of the best pieces of monkfish I had enjoyed for some time. The artichoke pasta selected by my comrade was perhaps a less adventurous decision on the part of the kitchen and tasted somewhat pedestrian. We finished with a white chocolate and strawberry cheesecake, which pleased relative to expectations (since normally I avoid white chocolate). Rather than it being sickly, it was light, airy and delicate
Our food was paired with a bottle of well-priced Muscadet which showed varietal typicity. Overall, the wine list leaned heavily towards France and erred on the side of tradition. Maybe there is scope for innovation in this respect, even if perhaps coming from London, this reviewer’s vinous expectations were overly elevated. When the bill came, at just over £100 all-in (and we had enjoyed two glasses of crémant before), there was little to quibble. Lots to like then, and a firm recommendation to any future visitors to this part of the world.