Put a lower case d and e next to each other in a trendy font and – voila – it resembles a leaf. This is wonderfully convenient for the deliciously Ella brand, which can now be abbreviated just to ‘de’. For the unaware, the eponymous Ella has her products across many supermarkets, is the publisher of several cookbooks and has a restaurant in central London. Its name leaves no ambiguity over what it does: serving vegetarian food which would please even the most hardened carnivore.
The site chosen by Ella was formerly a salad bar run under her deliciously brand. It was good, but very expensive and lacked no shortage of competitors offering similar things nearby. The conversion to an informal restaurant could therefore be considered a wise move. With only around 20 covers, it feels intimate, similar to stepping into someone’s living room. The décor angle is shabby chic, which while somewhat predictable, kind of works well here.
Your reviewer is a fan of uncomplicated menus. The tyranny of choice can sometimes be frustrating. Here, there are just four mains and a similar number of starters and desserts. We began with a sourdough flatbread and cultured butter, both made on site. Many years ago I was told that restaurants could (and should) be judged on the quality of this standard opener. If the chef can execute well here, then it sets the tone for the rest of the meal. Plants did not disappoint and our platter was quickly cleared. Onto the mains. Roast aubergine with an adornment of colourful toppings (pictured) for me; fresh pea and courgette risotto for my comrade. Both were a delight and demonstrated amply that neither meat nor fish is required to make a meal. Rocket salsa was a nice twist to my dish and the marinated courgette that topped my comrade’s risotto was another pleasing touch.
We left feeling healthy and happy without having had our wallet lightened too significantly either. Mains come in at just under £20, with other dishes typically priced at about £10. Although we just stuck to water, there is also the ability to enjoy alcohol. Go plants!