One of your reviewer’s fondest culinary experiences of last year was sitting in the Spring sunshine in Boston’s Back Bay district and eating a wonderful composition of charred octopus served with spicy nduja and fledgling potatoes. The venue in question was cult seafood outlet, Saltie Girl. Good news for Londoners: the group’s third venture (number two is in LA) opened in London late last year. Your reviewer liked it so much, he visited twice in a week.
For non-New Englanders, a ‘saltie girl’ is a local expression for a mermaid. She is said to bring good luck to fishermen. That the icon features as the venue’s logo is auspicious. Mayfair’s North Audley Street does not lack for restaurant alternatives and seafood celebrity-favourite Scott’s is located just down the road. However, Saltie Girl brings a dose of much-needed freshness (no pun intended) to the area. The décor inside speaks of understated elegance and is a composition of blues, with a wave-like pattern on the banquettes. The venue feels light and airy. There are also outdoor tables with striped blue and white chairs – you could almost imagine you were at the seaside – for when warmer times arrive in London.
No surprise when it comes to the food that the emphasis is on things from the sea. Although Boston is over 3,000 miles from London – and all of Saltie Girl’s food is sourced locally and sustainably – there is still a clear nod to the US East Coast. Fancy a New England Lobster Roll or a Boston Lettuce Salad? Well, your wishes can be catered for. There’s even a burger option for non-piscivores. The menu is well-ordered into raw or smoked sections, smaller and larger plates. Another novel angle is Saltie Girl’s wide range of tinned fish (mostly sardine), from a range of boutique suppliers. Across two meals – and with two different dining comrades – your reviewer was able to sample widely. An oyster selection proved a great showcase for the different varieties across the UK, while a platter of sea bass tartare also wowed. It seemed almost obligatory to try the New England Lobster Roll. The dish was everything one might have hoped for, both comforting and decadent. Squid with chorizo also pleased as did a crab sandwich.
Wines impressed too, particularly the by-the-glass selection, where many restaurants can fall down. None of the experience, of course, comes to cheap – and that’s before even contemplating the caviar options. Diners would be lucky to escape without seeing their wallets at least £50 lighter for just a couple of dishes and a glass of wine, but pricing is far from out of line with Saltie’s nearby neighbours. It might me slightly churlish to characterise the Boston original as better (and slightly cheaper), but London certainly benefits from having a Saltie Girl now in town.