Portmanteaus are wonderful things. Take two words, combine them and you’ve created a brand new one, perhaps even a concept too. This is exactly what Scot Stephen Lironi has done at Maresco, a new Spanish venue in the heart of Soho. The clue is in the name: ‘mar’ in recognition of the sea and ‘esco’, from escocia, as in a homage to Scotland. Beyond mere gimmickry, Maresco is a place with serious culinary intentions.
Sure, Soho doesn’t lack for minimally furnished countertop dining options with neon lighting adorning the walls, but Maresco has a clear plan and executes on it. Lironi, previously in the music trade, has focused on Spanish food since the opening of his first venue in north London a decade ago. Maresco sees his concept now hit central London (or since December last year). Per the restaurant’s website, it’s “hijacking some of the best Scottish seafood on its way to Spain.” Maresco also brings Spain to the UK, by importing a range of novel (and often natural) wines that comprise the venue’s list. We loved our bottle Hondarrabi Zuri from the Basque country.
There’s a beauty in keeping things simple and the menu at Maresco fits comfortably onto one page. Everything is aimed at sharing – don’t forget, the Spanish came up with this concept long before London restaurateurs did – and if seafood isn’t your thing, then there are is a decent range of meat and vegetable options. We were recommended to choose around half a dozen dishes across two. As in Spain, the food comes as soon as it is ready. First up were some artful marinated anchovies. Next came Isle of Barra razor clams. Both spoke of the sea, with saline flavours combining with judicious seasoning. Presentation was superlative too. Maresco also passed the pan con tomate test – with flying colours. This classic can be found everywhere in Catalonia and beyond, but few do it well outside of Spain. At Maresco, the tomatoes were ripe, perfectly salted and complemented with a judicious whack of garlic. The bread was light and airy. This is a dish you would comfortably come back to time and again. Don’t go all out on the savoury stuff though; save space for the Basque cheesecake. There’s no crust, it’s remarkably soft and there’s a persistent taste of bona fide cheese redolent throughout. Pair with a glass of PX sherry, and you have a very happy diner. Have no doubt, this is a place to return to. Pricing is fair (by Soho standards) and downstairs offers more formal seating for those who do not wish to people-watch at street level. Viva Espana. And Escocia!