Step into Socca and you can almost kid yourself you might be in the Mediterranean. Sure, no expense has been spared at this venue (as is evidenced by its prices), but it is testament to the team that they have been able to create a warming vibe at Socca, from décor to ambience via its food. Think of Socca as an updated take on La Petite Maison, taking the culinary genius of Claude Bosi and the design aesthetic of Samyukta Nair (Koyn, Jamavar etc.). It has all the hallmarks of a Mayfair classic in the making.
Socca is filled with a contrast of whitewashed walls and dark wood. There is a blue furnishing vibe reminiscent of the sea and the white muslin drapes allow the sun to filter in, casting a mellow hue around the room. Everyone, seemingly, has come to see what all the excitement about. On the weekday lunchtime when our group of three visited, all the tables were taken. While the (predominantly British) serving team coped admirably with demand, were there to be a quibble about Socca, then this is not a place to visit to have a quiet conversation. Elevated noise can help create an atmosphere, but not to the extent that guests must strain to hear every other word.
At least there were no complaints about the food, which constituted a masterclass in joie de vivre from the kitchen. It’s hard not to get excited about the produce of the Mediterranean: all things olive and pescine is generally a good starting point. We began with the obligatory ‘socca.’ For the uninitiated, it is a chickpea pancake that can be found along much of the Riviera. It’s light and airy and works as a wonderful foil for tapenades. In this respect, we opted for aubergine caviar, made from a base of black olives as well as a more conventional green olive offering. With such hors d’oeuvres priced at sub-£10 and intended for sharing, there is nothing to quibble about. Some diners may, however, baulk at £26 for a Salade Nicoise or £52 for marinated lamb chops. Not all options require such an outlay, and we did not feel at all short-changed by our main choices. Each delivered. Provencal beef cheeks were so tender the meat melted in the mouth. Meanwhile monkfish bourride (pictured) showed just how judicious use of high-quality olive oil and garlic can make a dish. Perhaps your reviewer’s favourite was the tripe and cuttlefish gratin. Cooking, for Bosi at Socca, is about elevating peasant food – and executing, in this instance, perfectly. A grilled andouillette (an offal assemblage) proved too big a step for our group and so a return visit will almost certainly be in order soon.