1994 might seem an age ago. At the time, your reviewer was just beginning university and rarely visited a restaurant unless benevolent relatives were paying. It was also the year when Fergus Henderson and his team created a culinary revolution when they opened the original St John restaurant in Smithfield Market. With it came the pioneering concept of ‘nose-to-tail’ cooking. This was (and remains) the place to go for offal. It is pleasing that a second St John venture has recently opened in Marylebone. Based on a recent visit, it can be every bit as good as the first.
There is a generally sensible principle that if things aren’t broken, don’t try and fix them. This is precisely what St John has done at its Marylebone venture, replicating the formula from the original. So, it’s white-washed walls, waiters in chef’s whites and a simple but effective menu, handwritten daily on a chalk board. Fine dining in a conventional sense, this is not, but if you’re after high-quality peasant food, then there are few better alternatives in town. Local denizens certainly seem to have got the message, since the venue was packed when our group of three sat down to eat for a midweek lunch
Diners get to choose from half a dozen starters and mains. Pleasingly, vegetarians are catered for, even in a meat-heavy environment – yes, this is 2023, not 1994. There was liver and sweetbreads (veal pancreas) on the menu for the culinary open-minded, but also more conventional options such as mussels or pollock. Presentation is basic, letting the food speak for itself. My anchovy toast and parsley salad starter was an exercise in effective simplicity. For mains, all three of our group opted for the sweetbreads, served in a robust tarragon and bacon sauce. It was rich, earthy, comforting and very moreish. Not that the portion was at all stingy, but I did say to the server that I would happily have eaten a second helping. Oenophiles can also have fun too, albeit from a predominantly French wine list. Our Rhone blend pleased and was priced reasonably. In conclusion, St John remains very much on form.