“I’ve never eaten good Mexican food in London” was what Gourmand Gunno’s dining comrade for the evening had told him when the two of us first discussed where we might go for our semi-regular supper outing. Your reviewer is fortunately a huge fan of all things Mexican, having first travelled to the country over 25 years ago. The good news – both for Gourmand Gunno and his then-sceptical comrade – is that London is now awash with ‘proper’ Mexican restaurants. Cavita is a welcome addition to the scene.
Forget trashy Tex-Mex and cheap tequila. ‘Mexico 2.0’ is all about reclaiming the country’s extensive culinary heritage, working wherever possible with indigenous herbs and spices. London’s highest ranked venue in the annual San Pelligrino World Best Restaurant rankings is a Mexican outlet (KOL). While Cavita is not quite in the same league, it is certainly on the right track. The chef-patron, the eponymous Adriana, hails from Mexico City, but describes her style of cooking as also embracing the country’s south-eastern regions, namely Oaxaca and Yucatan. This means there’s a lot of fish on show as well as a strong emphasis on moles (pronounced ‘mo-lays’), or hearty sauces to accompany protein.
Cavita is a joy to behold, located on the northern side of Wigmore Street and decorated in a bright orange hue, emblematic of many buildings in Mexico. On the warm evening when we visited, the patio doors were opened onto the street, creating a convivial atmosphere. We liked the mellow beige brickwork and wooden furniture. Other nice touches include an open wood fire for grilling and a cocktail bar around which much of the vibe emanates. Noise levels suggested a decent buzz, but we were comfortably able to hold a conversation without needing to raise our voices.
Onto the food and the story at Cavita is about sharing, per the fashion du jour. The menu is divided into raw bar, appetiser, street food and main sections. Rarely for London venues, our server did not lead us along a path of over-ordering, for portion sizes at Cavita are certainly generous. Two street food plates of tacos and a chicken mole verde were more than ample. From the former, opinion was divided. My comrade rated the crab option, whereas beef shin scored more highly for me. Here, a deep earthiness made the dish (apparently a veal bone consommé was the inspiration). Just as the wait for our main was on the point of becoming tiresome, our grilled chicken arrived. Patience paid off, with the platter comprising an ample portion of tender grilled meat, elevated by a coriander-led spicy sauce. Chilli heat across all the plates was judicious, rather than over-the-top. The accompanying vegetables did not wow quite so much, but the overall effect was pleasing. Everything was washed down with a decent bottle of white Rioja, chosen from a list that would merit from being somewhat more extensive. And who needs dessert, when you can finish with a flourish – as we did – by sipping an aged mezcal.