Reviewers that see any restaurant describe itself as “eclectic” have good reason – often through bitter prior experience – to be sceptical. When your venue has an absurdly pretentious name and is located on an expensive street in Mayfair, then the trepidation should mount further. MiMi, named with yet more absurdity in homage to a fictional empress who travels across China, is however worth a visit. There is substance behind the show.
When your reviewer read more about MiMi (the restaurant rather than the empress) he felt reassured. The backers behind this venture have also pioneered other Mayfair successes such as Jamavar, Bombay Bustle and Socca. In a similar vein, no expense has been spared at MiMi, either in terms of décor or the quality of the professionals on site and ingredients in the kitchen. Set over three floors, the story at MiMi is opulence. There are nods to Chinese culture as well as Colonial extravagance. It’s done well and tastefully. We were led to the middle of MiMi’s three rooms; light and airy, with a lot of pink furnishings and very comfortable seats. Mellow spring skies streamed in through the large windows.
My dining comrade for the meal was unfortunately time-constrained and so we were unable to sample MiMi’s piece-de-resistance, a glistening whole Peking duck. It is brought – as we were able to observe at a neighbouring table – steaming from the kitchen and is then carved dextrously by the chef tableside. Regardless, our perusal of the menu was far from disappointing. We sampled dim sum, starters and mains. The options are intended to represent culinary styles from across China and we were impressed at the thoughtfulness put into the menu’s composition, which showed pleasing originality. Seafood dim sum (omnivorous and vegetarian options are also available) was a wow in terms of presentation and delicacy, with an octopus offering winning out from our trio. Similar standards were upheld across the rest of our choices. Claypot chicken showed a breadth of flavour, a beef dish judicious spicing and seasonal vegetables were far from a culinary after-thought at MiMi.
None of the experience comes cheap. Were the Peking duck your thing, then it will set you back well over £100. A seabass main comes in at close on £60. A three-course set menu at £48 is better relative value. There is also a tasting menu at almost three times this price. A similar observation could be made about the wines, with a small (125ml) glass of Burgundy costing a healthy £28 by way of example. No half bottles are available. We are in expense account territory here. If not that, then ladies who like to lunch and wealthy expats. There’s a certain vibe that may not be for everyone, but the sight and smell of that Peking duck left me craving for a return visit.