Boxcar: Every neighbourhood needs one

If New Quebec Street in Marylebone were my local high street, then I would be delighted. Luckily it is close to where your reviewer both lives and works. Zayna has been a long-standing favourite for curry. There’s also a great wine shop, a fishmonger and more. In addition, Boxcar is located on this street. Open since 2017, Gourmand Gunno corrected a long-standing anomaly by visiting it recently. Billed as a ‘neighbourhood restaurant’, it certainly constitutes a wonderful addition to the street, for both food and vibe.

Attitude goes a long way in the restaurant world. It doesn’t cost much but delivers disproportionate gains. Boxcar had it in spades. Right from the get-go, our servers went out of their way to be accommodating and helpful. No request seemed too onerous whether it related to drinks (a complicated order was quickly rectified), the timing of when we wanted our dishes served or providing at short notice an alternative dessert for one member of our party with a nut allergy. There was a subtle but not overbearing emphasis on up-sell too.

There is every reason to linger at Boxcar. It is light and airy with stools perched at the front of the venue for people-watching, and a larger area at the back, designed as a conservatory that can be appropriated for private events. Dogs are welcomed too. Dark wood furnishings contrast pleasingly with light oatmeal soft finishes. Food-wise, the angle is simple: premium-quality organic meat from independent British farmers. A blackboard lists the day’s ‘butcher’s cuts.’ Vegetarians are not forgotten either, with one starter and two mains available, from a list of 12 possible options, excluding specials.

Our group of six sampled happily across the menu. From the starters available both pig’s head croquettes and haggis sausage rolls were novel takes on old school dishes. Artfully presented, they had a winning taste to match too. Blackberry ketchup worked as a wonderful foil to the earthy, salty notes of the haggis. A duck breast main was executed with panache, accompanied by a classic side of red cabbage. Meanwhile, the piece-de-resistance, a 600g chateaubriand (pictured) was everything we could have hoped for. Puddings and wine also delivered, with a South African Syrah in the latter section serving as a clear crowd-pleaser. Pricing is reasonable too. A set lunch could cost as little as £19, while meat cuts are generally priced at a discount to Hawksmoor and its ilk. Rumour has it that the Sunday Roast is amazing too. Move to Marylebone then, or at least make a visit to this neighbourhood.