There is something wonderfully comforting about a roaring log fire, particularly on a blustery day. The one at Hartwell House, a Jacobean pile now owned by the National Trust on the edge of the Chilterns, was a particularly good and warming one. It was also, arguably, the highlight of our recent visit. Food was forgettable and service left quite a bit to be desired.
Happily installed by the fire, things turned downhill quickly. A server required if we wished drinks. A gin for me and a glass of white wine for my comrade. No choice of gin or wine was offered – only a mere “Chardonnay OK?” – and no nibbles were provided with said aperitifs. A curious lack of effort or upsell from a venue that prides itself on luxury.
When our other guests arrived, we proceeded to the dining room. It’s a grand space, for sure, and affords stunning views over the Capability Brown-scaped gardens. However, it lacked atmosphere, in spades. Apart from our group occupying a corner table for ten, no more than a third of the remaining seating was ever filled. Sounds echoed off the high ceilings and sparsely decorated walls. Worse, despite the absence of guests, service was poor. One of our group – unfortunately your reviewer – received the wrong starter and had to wait over ten minutes for the correct dish to arrive. We often had to replenish our own glasses, since no-one was on hand to do so. More water for the table had to be forcibly requested, rather than ours needs pre-empted.
It was hard to fault specifically the food, but to suggest that it either wowed or pushed boundaries would be incorrect. Solid and staid might be appropriate adjectives, at best. To start, an amuse-bouche of gougères, or cheese-filled choux pastries, were a valiant effort but tasted off-balance and unpleasantly heavy. Some of the battle on my salmon may have been lost owing to its late arrival, but your reviewer saw no evidence of its promised lime pickle purée. A main of partridge was better. Other guests did offer more praise for their dishes, such as the sea bream pictured. Both a vegetarian and vegan in our party did receive dedicated menus with several choices and appreciated the effort and their dishes.
At £39 for two courses or £48 for three (and we opted for puddings), it is hard to quibble about pricing, particularly in the context of London levels, where a main might cost the equivalent of a full meal at Hartwell. It was similarly pleasing to find some great sub-£50/bottle wine bargains on the venue’s list. A Loire Vouvray certainly impressed. In the final assessment, perhaps you get what you pay for. Diner expectations in the country (not to mention the post-Brexit challenge venues such as Hartwell may encounter when seeking competent staff) ought to be appropriately calibrated at the outset.