In a world where dining is often about the next new thing, experiments with fusion and Insta-friendliness, it’s a reassuring thing of beauty to find a classic French brasserie. Located in a leafy Oxford suburb, Pompette is the sort of place where you could happily go for lunch and never leave. This is perhaps the aim of the owners, since translated, the name means ‘tipsy.’ Crack on with the wine and leave happy.
When your reviewer visited, it was for work reasons, so we only partook in a glass. However, there was ample time to appreciate the simple genius of Pompette. Guests in the know should not be too surprised, since the man and wife team behind the venue were previously involved with Terroirs – much loved and formerly of central London. A homage to the venue can be found in the form of Pompette’s extensive range of charcuterie, pates and cheeses. The left-hand side of Pompette doubles as a bar where this range is available, although diners on the right can appreciate them too as part of an a la carte offering. Throughout, Pompette is decorated in attractive shades of red and blue, combined with brick walls and tastefully curated artwork.
Since Pompette was not so busy on the Friday lunchtime when we visited, we were given the choice of where to sit. We choose the right side, but the time spent at the restaurant confirmed that there are no bad seats for people watching, with the large windows affording an opportunity beyond. We were presented with three menu options: conventional a la carte, dishes of the day and a quite remarkably good value prix fixe venue, priced at £28 for three courses. The angle throughout is distinctly classic French, albeit with a few Mediterranean and North African influences.
We stayed on the conservative side of the menu, commencing with ham and Manchego croquettes (excellent) followed by a cheese and walnut dip (a little too rich). Both my dining comrade and I went for steak as our mains. While it is generally hard to screw up cooking a hunk of beef, Pompette prepared theirs very well. Served in its own juices told the story amply – the essence of cow, in a rich and very satisfying format. For those with more substantial appetites, the pudding list looked enticing. Had it been a different occasion, then the ample (albeit French-heavy) wine list would have undoubtedly yielded up some gems. Every neighbourhood needs a place like this.