Few may have heard of Thomas Cubitt, but many may have visited the mini pub chain that is named in his honour. For the unaware, the gentleman in question was a British master builder, renowned for developing much of the late Georgian and early Victorian architecture that defines London. Wind the clock on to the 21st Century and many of his buildings have been reincarnated as up-market pubs.
Your author first visited the eponymous Thomas Cubitt pub in his early reviewing days of 2012. In more recent times, Mayfair’s The Barley Mow has become a local favourite. Like London buses, last week saw two visits to pubs within the Cubitt House stable: both the Mayfair stalwart and nearby Marylebone’s The Coachmaker’s Arms. Have no doubt, the group has identified a winning formula, amply on display at each venue plus several others across town.
The approach is simple. Take a classic pub, lovingly restore many of its original features downstairs and then add a top-notch dining venue upstairs. The Cubitt House group identified this notion long before the likes of The Devonshire popularised it. The upper dining rooms of both The Barley Mow and The Coachmaker’s looked resplendent in the early Spring sunshine. The two rooms emphasise natural light and have a clubby yet classy feel. This is what a gastropub should be like.
In fairness, the menu at neither pushes boundaries, but nor is it trying to. The angle is about delivering solid modern British cooking in a sophisticated fashion (with prices to match). Your author has waxed lyrical about the Barley Mow’s Scotch Egg in the past. This perhaps epitomises what the kitchens at these venues are all about. His dining comrade at the Coachmaker’s took this as his starter. He was duly delighted, especially with the veritably glowing yolk. There was a touch of envy on the part of your reviewer, but he was pleased with his crab, leek and tarragon croquettes. Arguably, however, the Barley Mow’s superb spring salad starter of chalk stream trout with fennel and a horseradish crème fraiche (pictured) topped this for excellence.
Mains continued in a similar vein. Our group of five at The Barley Mow traversed widely across the options, with your reviewer delighted to share with one comrade a portion of grilled goat. If only more venues were to include this animal on their menus. It was smoky, somewhat gamey and very satisfying. A lovely portion of seasonal beets and carrots worked well as a foil. Lamb chops at The Coachmaker’s were another success. Lest readers think this is a pure meat-fest then rest assured. The Spenwood potato and onion Wellington selected by Gourmand Gunno’s comrade at the latter pub was another envy-inducing selection. One can only assume it tasted as good as it looked.
The other bonus, of course, in dining at either venue is that there is top beer (come forward Austria’s Stiegl) and a very decent wine list to accompany the food. If only there were a Thomas Cubitt pub on every corner.