There is oodles of potential at this luxury hotel close to the border between Scotland and England. Like many similarly styled venues, the somewhat pretentiously named Schloss (German for castle, if you were not aware – despite the venue’s lack of connections with the country) suffers in comparison with fine dining options in London. Its cuisine will also never show at its best when catering for large groups. But have no doubt, the setting is stunning and the recently installed Head Chef has grand plans.
The Schloss is situated in 300 acres of land close to Kelso. The estate comprises not just the eponymous castle but also a river (the Teviot), a loch, woodland and an 18-hole championship golf course. There has been a castle on this site since the 12th century. It was originally known as Sunlaws – the name now appended to its fine dining venue – and hosted Bonnie Prince Charlie for a night in 1745. In his honour, the main dining location at the hotel is called Charlie’s. The Duke of Roxburghe still owns the estate, although the hotel is now part of the Hyatt stable.
Head Chef Daniel Ashmore has only had the chief responsibility for food at the venue for around six months. He comes with pedigree, having worked with both Philip Howard (The Square, Elystan Street) and Tom Aitkens. Your reviewer was privileged to spend some time with him as he kindly led a small group of recent visitors on a curated foraging tour, where we subsequently enjoyed the contents. The extensive grounds of the Schloss provide multifarious opportunities. Edible mushrooms were abundant. Two gamekeepers are employed on a full-time basis to take advantage of the deer, rabbits, pheasants and more that roam the estate. Daniel has ensured that many vegetables are grown on site (polytunnels will apparently follow in due course) and two beehives have recently been added.
When quizzed about the culinary angle at the Schloss, Daniel’s angle is a simple one: like any classically trained French chef, add extensive amounts of butter and salt to a dish, and it will almost certainly be elevated. Consider then the cooking as traditional French flare, combined with a uniquely Scottish twist that emphasises localism and seasonality. Salmon and game feature extensively.
Catering for a group of 40 people with a certain budget in mind presents its own challenges in any venue. Over two full days, the group had an opportunity to enjoy two dinners (one in Charlie’s and the other in the conservatory, which can be reserved for special occasions) as well as sampling from the breakfast buffet and partaking in two more informal lunch selections. Haggis was a standout for this reviewer. There are few better things to start the day, especially after an invigorating run. At Schloss Roxburghe, it was prepared as it should be; rich and spicy with a real depth. It also featured as an ingredient in a roast supreme of chicken served at one of the two dinners. Here it formed a mousse which elegantly complemented the meat and paired off well with chanterelle mushrooms. A whisky jus was an obvious accompaniment. Fish received proper treatment at the Schloss. Beyond salmon, the team served up a roasted fillet of seabass with Mediterranean veg and a saffron velouté, and separately a roasted monkfish tail with curried cauliflower and a lime leaf emulsion. Ironically, the more basic food on offer at the Schloss was less successful. A breakfast Arbroath Smokie (or Scottish take on a kipper, for the uninitiated) was rather dry, while the selection of lunchtime sandwiches severely underwhelmed. Notwithstanding these glitches, a return visit if in this part of the world would certainly be merited. With time, the culinary team will almost certainly make a further mark on the Schloss too.