“Because it’s cooked with love” was the answer given by our garrulous host when asked what made Barrafina’s tortilla better than those of its rivals. Such a response may sound trite or flippant. However, it serves as a perfect expression for Barrafina’s cooking. 18 years’ on from when the first branch opened and now up to 5 outlets, it was abundantly evident to both your reviewer and his dining comrade on a recent visit to the Covent Garden site that this love story remains very much alive.
Spanish blood and passion run in the family that set Barrafina up in 2007. The mission of the Hart brothers (and their extended family, who remain involved) was simple: take the tapas bars of Barcelona and adapt them for London life. Step into the Adelaide Street branch of Barrafina and diners encounter a horseshoe-shaped bar. Guests perch on stools and watch the team in action. There is no place to hide. All life is on display. This is performance cooking and a true dining experience. Were it not for the passing London buses and black cabs, you could almost be in Spain. Equally, Barrafina does feel very cool. The marble topped counter, chrome fittings and ample mirrors have a timeless element to them, which works anywhere.
The only problem that we encountered was knowing what to choose. Some 30 options are listed on the menu with a further half dozen or so on a specials board. Luckily our server gave us some helpful prompts, and not just towards the tortilla. First out was a duo of punchy crab croquettes, a worthwhile take on the more conventional ham option. Next up followed pan con tomate. Your reviewer smiled wryly at this stage, for this simple offering perhaps represents the best yardstick for the talents of any Spanish outlet. With four main ingredients – bread, tomato, garlic and olive oil – their quality evidently counts. Barrafina’s dish was first-rate, with the bread firm, the tomato well-seasoned and the garlic generous. With the bar set high, the venue’s tortilla followed. Whether made with love or not, it was truly excellent; light yet fluffy, with a dripping yolky richness and a salty offset from the chorizo topping. If for no other reason, a future visit should take in the other alternative on the menu to the traditional tortilla. Imagine a prawn and piquillo tortilla made with love.
Luckily for your reviewer, prawns did feature later in our range of dishes. The gambas rojas were undoubtedly one of the dining highlights. They were tender and not overly doused in oil. Garlic featured generously again. Maybe this is the way to Gourmand Gunno’s dining heart. Further dishes followed, with each new offering mostly surpassing its predecessor. Lamb kidneys served on their own mini-grill with its coals still smoking were another delight. Lest vegetarians feel wary, then rest assured. A swathe of dishes is available. We tried artichokes (cooked in a dish that again included garlic) and courgette flower. Both pleased.
Oenophiles will not go disappointed at Barrafina either. The list is intelligently compiled with wines from across Spain. A credible heavyweight producer – Muga – features prominently It was also a delight to see a sherry menu comprising around 10 offerings. Across both food and wine, pricing is fair, by London standards. Another reason to visit and see the passion in action.