In a world where first impressions count, many diners might naturally be put off Satyrio. Not only could the exterior do with a face lift, but to get there, diners must navigate liminal London. Located on Aldgate High Street, Satyrio feels likes it neither quite swanky City nor trendy Shoreditch. Step inside, however, and there is a lot – even if not everything – to like about this venue.
Part of the joy of Satyrio, particularly for an oenophile such as this reviewer, is that it doubles as both a wine merchant and a restaurant. What visitors see in the fridges and on the shelves can be consumed both on and off the premises. There’s a wonderful selection, with many luminary Italian winemakers including Antinori, Conterno, Pio Cesare, Terlano represented. Fancy champagne? Well, there’s Bollinger, Dom, Krug and Salon on the list. All very cool, but it does help if the staff are well-informed. The two servers we had for the evening stood at polar opposites. One was confident and charismatic, happy to share his knowledge and impart suggestions. His comrade, however, was like a metaphorical rabbit in headlights, and seemingly deeply uncomfortable about customer interaction.
Problems such as these can, of course, be easily remedied and a couple of glasses of wine in convivial company always helps. Our evening at Satyrio was very relaxed. Beyond the wine shop sit some ten tables furnished in light wood where guests can both drink and dine. Step round the corner, and there’s a gem of a garden, a highly surprising find in East London. We sat here and enjoyed the ambience. Red London buses swished silently by in the distance.
The food sits very much at the traditional end of the Italian spectrum, but everything we ate was competently executed. Diners get to choose from around half a dozen starter, pasta and main options. My guest and I enjoyed a trio of starters to share – burrata, calamari and beef tataki. The former was light yet creamy with the balsamic dressing acting as a pleasing foil to the dairy. Our squid benefited from a tasty herb crust, and the beef topside benefited from the subtle lift given to it by the accompanying horseradish yoghurt. We both did a double-take when considering the mains. A 700g cote de beouf priced at just £55 seemed like an absolute anomaly. We seized the day/ meat. Our beef may not have been the very best ever consumed, but was still deeply satisfying, enhanced by a chimichurri oil. Barolo followed Barbaersco on the wine front and everyone was happy.
At no stage did we feel rushed. If anything, the service felt a touch slow at times. Satyrio, for sure, won’t float everyone’s boat, but we thoroughly enjoyed the occasion.