The Brighton dining scene seems to go from strength to strength. Kindling, open now for just over a year, is a worthy addition. Its frontage leaves nothing to the imagination, with the words ‘simply steak’ written just below the venue’s name. This, however, does Kindling a disservice. There’s more than meat on the menu and execution elevates the restaurant.
Although the term kindling typically refers to the small sticks or twigs used for lighting fires, the angle at Kindling is cooking on open coals. As is the current fashion, the chefs ply their trade in full view of guests. Culinary theatre is part of the experience. Add in the décor – lots of lush greenery, simple furnishings and quite a bit of wood – and you could almost pretend you were in Shoreditch, rather than steps away from the touristy Lanes of Brighton.
Inside Kindling an air of calm prevails. Our trio spent a lengthy lunchtime at the venue and at no stage were we rushed. We commenced with a series of snacks. Chuck anything on coals and it will almost certainly taste good if the chefs know what they’re doing. Chargrilled corn ribs with a homemade siracha mayo was a case in point. Courgette and feta fritters showed that Kindling is no one trick (grilling) pony. The dish delivered, helped along by tzatziki and sumac. Meat, of course, was the main event. Two of our group (your reviewer included) shared the restaurant’s signature cote de boeuf, which was beautifully presented and cooked medium rare, as requested. Sides (especially a hispi cabbage option) demonstrated again that Kindling know their veg.
A bottle of Malbec seemed almost obligatory as a steak pair. Kindling obliged. The wine list is short – similar to the food menu – and does not push any boundaries. But this is to miss the point. What Kindling offers, it does very well. Pricing is fair too. There is every reason to return.