If you wanted to create “the most accomplished and ambitious project devoted to Spanish gastronomy in Europe,” then the City of London with its staid suited bankers might not be the first location that springs to mind. Regardless, Hispania – whose website is the source for this quote – is a gem of a venue. Décor, food and ambience all provide a reason to visit.
London, after all, is Europe’s largest city by population. The Brits love tradition too, so why not take a former grand banking hall (the original home of Lloyds Bank) and convert it into a glamorous culinary palace? The venue’s website puts the refurbishment cost of the whole building at £65m. Given Hispania has been open for more than a decade, to do the same exercise today would be even steeper. The building still awes – replete with much marble imported from Spain, an imposing staircase and high ceilings.
The backers have not just splashed on design, but on personnel too. The much-garlanded Marcos Morán continues to head up the kitchen at Hispania. Dining here is less about El Bulli-style boundary pushing. Rather, it is a story of taking traditional Spanish food, then preparing and presenting it exceptionally well. If you think tapas is patatas bravas on the Costa Brava, then think again. Our opening dish – pictured – captures the essence of Hispania. Crujientes de queso not only inspire visually but comprise fully flavoured and deeply satisfying mouthfuls of toffee flavoured filo pastry filled with a blend of Spanish cheese.
As we sat at Hispania’s counter – my dining comrade, a regular, noted this was the prime spot – it was almost possible to believe it might have been Spain. The menu would not have been too out of place in a Basque or Catalan venue. The dishes came as soon as ready and everything was presented with panache. The Hispania team showed its culinary creativity across land and sea. Other dairy-based dishes delighted as did Cantabrian anchovies, prawns served in a clay pot and a platter of mixed meats. For those after bigger dishes, Hispania notably has a game section. Take the likes of British partridge or venison and prepare Spanish style.
Were game not reason enough to return, then a final plaudit for Hispania’s wine list. Similar to the food, it is remarkably well-priced (especially given Hispania must surely still be recouping the building’s renovation costs) and is almost exclusively Spanish. Our Garnacha from Priorat showed everything that is exciting about this wine region. A Spanish brandy digestif on the house was a fitting finale. Ole!