Everyone loves a bit of theatre when they’re out for a posh meal. Even better if it evokes a sense of comfortable nostalgia too. Rosi does both very well. The Beaumont Hotel’s main dining space has been revamped for the better. Out goes the Colony Grill and in comes Lisa Goodwin-Allen’s inimitable charm and take on British dining.
The Beaumont’s design team has worked wonders, especially in a room that lacks natural light. Gone is the prior wood panelling, replaced by a swathe of pastel shades accompanied by marble and copper finishes. Think 1920s Art Deco modernised for the 2020s And then there are the iconic murals that dominate the back wall. There’s something a little subversive or subtly humorous about them. You’re either in on the joke, or you’re not.
Maybe this is the whole point about Rosi. Sure, this is Mayfair, but sceptics might ask can any venue get away with charging £19 for a pork pie or £38 for fish fingers (even if the latter are of the John Dory variety)? Rosi does. It pulls everything off with verve and panache. The venue was mostly full when we visited on a weekday lunchtime. Some neighbouring tables were enjoying champagne and beautiful canapes to kick things off. At others, smoked salmon and beef tartare dishes were being elegantly assembled in front of guests. If you’re lucky, they may even flambé your pudding live.
Our trio all commenced with wild mushroom Scotch Eggs. Priced at £16 each, these seemed like a relative bargain. When they arrived, they looked like no comparable offering of this variety any of us had seen elsewhere – more like a miniature pinecone than a hefty ball of lard and protein. Although consumed in just a few mouthfuls, the dish was incredibly flavoursome. Pickles and garlic added harmony to the quail’s egg.
Two of our group chose liver and bacon for our mains (the third opted for duck). The dish represented a Proustian pull for this author; the sort of thing his mother cooked him as a child. Rosi’s iteration didn’t quite take me back to the 1980s but propelled me forward. Of course, using premium calf’s liver rather than whatever the supermarket had to offer would elevate the dish. Parsley, shallot and mustard were nice touches, and a creamy spinach side left an inevitable smile.
A wonderful bottle of Spanish red chosen from a well compiled wine list helped everything comfortably along. We could have lingered longer had the real world not called. Rosi may leave your wallet depleted, but it is a very welcome addition to the London dining scene.