Lonsdale Road is fast becoming a cool destination for those who live in northwest London. Bar Blondie is a worthy addition to this pedestrianised street which boasts a market at weekends. The backers of the venue have created a classic in the making that mixes Spaghetti Western vibes with top-notch cooking and wine list to die for.
Unless you know your Clint Eastwood, the ‘Blondie’ reference may be lost. It is a direct nod to the character played by Eastwood in perhaps his best-known film, ‘The Good, the Bad and the Ugly.’ Blondie bucks convention. Its namesake restaurant seeks to do the same, blending Italian modernism with American pop culture. Check the cow-hair upholstered bar stools and the bathrooms which exclusively play soundtracks scored by Ennio Morricone the composer behind the film’s haunting, iconic theme music.
This aesthetic extends to the wine list, with its being structured around different ‘muses.’ Like film, wine can be a source of inspiration. The list is eclectic, comprising over 160 choices across classics and more esoteric choices. We commenced with a zingy white from Galicia and then followed it with an almost ethereal Cabernet Franc from the Loire.
To suggest, however, that Bar Blondie is simply an on-trend wine bar is to do a massive disservice to the kitchen. The venue keeps things simple with an A5 printed menu. Around 15 dishes are available, varying in size and price point. There is a clear nod to the Mediterranean in what Bar Blondie offers, although British ingredients (Maldon oysters, Cornish lamb) feature prominently.
A fried quail dish with nduja and aioli perhaps best exemplifies the skilled playfulness of the culinary team. Think of this as ‘posh KFC’, but executed superbly: tender meat, crispy crumb and an excellent balance of elevated spiced accompaniments. There were no fails among the dishes we took. Both anchovy crostini and torched mackerel snacks were superb and the lamb main we shared was a dish of dreams (and see picture). It was wonderfully comforting, the sort of meal that worked perfectly on an Autumn’s evening.
Plaudits too to the servers. The entire team went out of their way to ensure we were well-looked after. Even if, at times, their attention verged on the over-enthusiastic, the vibe the venue has created is one to which you want to keep returning, again and again.