Pollen Street is a small, pedestrianised road just to the south of Hanover Square. Many passers-by could miss it. Which would be a pity, since it houses a delightful restaurant called Chez Rose. On a sunny day, three tables allow guests to sit outside. Indoors, the vibe is classic French bistro with a few modern twists. Close your eyes and you could almost believe you were in France.
But this is London and chef Spencer Metzger is not French. Neither of these things matter. Monsieur Metzger’s grandmother was called Rose. This is homage to her, and her cooking. It probably helps too that the chef worked for a long time with Jason Atherton. Indeed, the restaurant sits on the site of his former outpost Little Social.
The formula at Chez Rose is a simple but effective one: take classic recipes and seasonal produce, then combine. Our (non-English) server was at pains to highlight just how many of the ingredients the restaurant uses hail from the British Isles, with only a couple brought in from across the Channel. Read the menu, and it’s full-on French – think gougères, steak tartare, Dover sole in a sauce meunière, and so on.
Guests are encouraged to begin with some snacks followed by a conventional three-course meal. The former one-mouthful morsels might cost diners almost £10 each – this being Mayfair after all – but they are well worth it and set the tone for the rest of the experience. A dainty and juicy red prawn was lifted by an invigorating dash of Amalfi lemon. Meanwhile, the gougère (singular – and pictured) had a lovely savoury onion backdrop, which cut through the richness of the pastry.
Chez Rose really came into its own as the meal progressed. Both my dining comrade and I noted the freshness of the ingredients, with a tomato and peach salad being an absolute standout. Tomatoes also featured in the restaurant’s courgette flower dish, which was enhanced not only by a creamily indulgent ricotta, but also by a piquant sauce vierge (olive oil, lemon, basil and crushed coriander seed). It would be possible to go on with the praise. Each plate would merit its own set of superlatives. Although we sampled seven excellent dishes, we failed to cover not even half the options available. Another visit is certainly in order. The venue’s wine list also deserves perusal. Rose, I am sure, would be proud of her grandson.