Wild Honey: Sweet remains the honey

The doors of Wild Honey have been open for 11 years during which time I have been a regular visitor. A recent lunchtime return visit to the venue reminded me just how good this place is and why it continues to pull in the crowds. Put simply, what Wild Honey does is offer impressively good comfort food in a lovely venue, albeit at Mayfair prices. A three-course ‘working lunch’ menu sets diners back £35, interestingly, an impressive 35% price hike from the rate of £26 it charged for the equivalent experience back in 2012, when I last reviewed the venue (needless to say, going a la carte costs considerably more). Diners don’t seem put off in the least and the venue was packed on our visit. I guess there is enough going for Wild Honey to keep pulling in the punters. This is a place you want to linger, on the warm red banquettes enclosed in a wood-panelled room with constantly changing displays of modern art on the walls. Service was friendly and professional throughout, a hard act to pull off, in terms of keeping things relaxed and intimate yet without being intrusive. Onto the food and I began with a starter of grilled sardines, wood roasted sweet pepper salsa and Moroccan lemon. The three fishes adorning my plate were beautifully plump and juicy with the accompanying items providing a perfect foil in terms of flavour. A slowed cooked Welsh lamb main served with grilled hispi cabbage and Scottish wild mushrooms was another masterpiece of contrasting flavours and textures, presented beautifully too. The lamb was tender without being too fatty. Finally, there was room for a selection of cheeses from what has to be among the more extravagant boards in London. Very good all round, with no signs of standards slipping.