Plateau: Elevation, Canary Wharf-style

Amidst its jungle of skyscrapers, Canary Wharf has many dining options, but few high-end ones. Plateau is therefore a welcome relief, even if the formula is a familiar one. This is perhaps unsurprising given it is part of the D&D restaurant group (which now numbers 30+ venues such as La Pont de la Tour and Le Coq d’Argent). Even if the food pleased and service could not be faulted, it still did not take away from the fact that places sorely lacks atmosphere, or even a sense of joyfulness. All the diners were almost identically dressed in business outfits. Were they to look up from their meals between debating matters of high finance or similar, they would be forced to take in a depressing view from the large floor-to-ceiling windows of very similar-looking tall buildings interspersed with scaffolding and diggers. This is not New York (where such a vista might be considered cool), but just a small part of London, distant from the real heart of the place. Dining here means you may have made it by Canary Wharf standards, but give me Mayfair, the river, or just about anywhere else for some ambience. Enough griping, and £25 for a two-course set lunch (or £30 for a pudding too) represents distinct value given the quality of the cooking on offer. A La Carte options are pricier (~£15 for starters, ~£30 for mains), but this probably doesn’t matter if expenses accounts generally cover the bill. My comrade and I stuck to mains, but I had no complaints about my roast venison haunch, parsnip, red cabbage and juniper port dish. It was presented beautifully; the meat was tender and the flavours combined harmoniously. There were plaudits for the baked cod from my comrade too. One of the best venues that Canary Wharf has to offer, even if the praise is somewhat relative.